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I have a switch on the shifter that is a single hot wire to the trans. The negative side is grounded internally in the trans. Post #86 I believe has a video showing how I lock it. It can be locked in any gear at any time if you want. But it’s all done manually. One thing I found out is that you...

Hmm those guys must really be keeping ahead of schedule

You got a “custom built converter” in one week flat? Hmm that alone would raise a red flag for me.....

Here it is

Used a B&M Plate style. Don’t know why I don’t have a final installation picture but here’s the top of it mounted to the passenger side of the radiator. The bottom is mounted to the radiator support with nut plates and bolts.

Powdercoat. Brake fluid doesn’t bother it and I’ve had a lot one my old one and it never peeled or discolored.

Mine was cut off with a sawzall and grinder. It was not machined, but it looks like it was. Way too much trouble to get it tooled up to machine unless you send it to Lonnie.

In the transmission rebuild with converter and Reid bellhousing I have about $3300 -$3400 in mine. Minus $900 for selling the old trans and converter and I have about $2500 in it. That doesn’t include oil cooler, lines, shifter, reverse switch, driveshaft, etc.

Something we found out when I took the car to get the exhaust reconfigured was that my TTi X pipe would no longer work the way it was. They had to extend the exhaust 5 inches just after the collector to get the X pipe far enough back to clear the new transmission crossmember.

Ok ok ok. Maybe that was an exaggeration! If I consider jacking up the car, remove 6 bolts on the header flange, pull spark plug wires, etc, it’s a 30 minute job.

Only thing I cut was the crossmember. The crossmember could have stayed in the car and been notched for the trans. Then the tabs on trans would need removed to fit like others did but I saw no point in leaving the stock crossmember with the US Car Tool crossmember. Like I’d ever go back to a 727...

Funny you mention that cause I did the same thing. Detents were too tight so I bent the spring so that I could change gears more easily. In the stock position, it really felt excessively hard to go through the gears.

I have heard about less frictional losses in these transmissions but I wasn’t going to make claims that I couldn’t prove some data with. Is there anything out there that you know of that proves this? No floor cutting with this swap either.

Yes the gear splits are better than the 727 and the 200-4R overdrive is better than the gear vendors overdrive. Other things to consider is the fact that if your current transmission already has a bunch of mileage, you may need a rebuild. Add that rebuild money to a Gear vendors and it gets...

And performance too. Lockup isn’t as much performance oriented but I have a 4500 stall converter so I wanted to lock it on the highway. But wiring the switch was easy. Just one wire and done. Not much complicated about that.

Just a personal preference, I wouldn’t use monster transmissions just due to the amount of failure rates I’ve heard about. If I were to buy a 200-4R from a shop, I would buy it from Extreme Automatics. They are the gurus on these transmissions and I have heard many success stories with them...

Not a problem. My 417 is probably north of 600 hp so we shall see how it holds out. They can be built to handle 1000 hp but it’s important to get them set up correctly. Otherwise they’ll fail along with the many others who have burned them up due to improper throttle valve adjustments and not...

Took my first cruise on the highway tonight. I was very pleased with the rpm drop. Now this isn’t an apples to apples comparison from before since I’m running a 30” tire and a 3.91 gear. Before it had a 4.10 gear with 28” tires. So I essentially gained 10 mph at the same rpm it would have been...

I had a local shop put it together and I didn’t really ask a lot of questions but for what I paid, I should have gone aluminum. I believe it’s 3.5” diameter mild steel. I’m really not sure on the steel type though.

Inbox fixed lol

I agree Extreme Automatics is probably best in the biz. I too used their CNC adapter ring in my build.

You can have anyone build the tranny. Just need the bellhousing cut off and one of these installed Big Block Mopar Bellhousing. You can easily get one built strong enough for your 451.

Yes the TV cable is probably the most important thing to have adjusted correctly on these. I should be running 2500 rpm @ 81 mph with 4.10 gear and 30” tires. Can’t wait!

It’s laying around. I’ll probably toss it. Extreme Automatics builds them to 1000hp. I ended up with about 1/8” of end play on mine. Used some spacers provided by FTI.

Here is where the CRITCAL attention to detail lies with these transmissions. The adjustment here will either burn the clutches up or make the transmission not work properly. The plunger must be fully engaged at WOT. No exceptions. Then when the throttle is released, the measurement from the...

New driveshaft with 1350 U joints and a Billet slip yoke.

To get the shifter linkage to work with the cast pan took some trimming. Also had to buy a Lokar reverse light kit and modify that to work on this application as well. So the NSS is in the shifter and the reverse lights are an external switch on the side of the transmission. Also made a...

Disassembled my shifter and polished the handles