fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Wow! Would have never guessed that
200-4R Behind a 340 and Reid Bellhousing Build
- Thread starter clinteg
- Start date
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Trimmed out the center section of the old crossmember. Be sure to do this before you try and mock up. The trans will not go all the way up if you don’t and then you’ll be pulling it back out. I had to loosen both headers in order to allow the Reid bell housing to slip past. It barely fit due to it being much wider than the factory bellhousing.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I heard it would fit without modifying the crossmember. Guess I heard wrong
If the ears weren’t on the rear of the trans it might have gone in there.
Unfortunately the US Car Tool mount didn’t fit very well to the tunnel. After speaking with them, turns out the ‘67 car that was used in their initial build that they tooled off of had an aftermarket floor. So understandably, it’s not going to fit the same as a factory. 4” back it would fit the tunnel well but then it was way off location and nothing else fit. So the easiest fix here is the add some gusset plates and lap them over the gaps and mount. The important areas that need get welded are the arms and that area fits good enough that I can fully weld it there. I’ll just do a small plate at the top of the tunnel and that’s it. The mount doesn’t need to be fully welded in the tunnel.
And see here it’s located 4” or so back in a pinched area of the tunnel and it fits well. Too bad.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Looks like your welded in aftermarket floor patches aren't helping either.
It’s not terrible there. Where it’s bad is where the original part of the tunnel is.
67fbcuda
Well-Known Member
Subscribed. Very interesting!
Been a while since I updated. New picture site was down and finally came back online. As of righ now, the transmission is ready to go. The crossmember is welded in, I installed a new B&M oil cooler, all new lines and AN fittings, shifter is mounted, essentially everything is done.
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Treblig
Well-Known Member
VERY NICE WORK!!
To get the shifter linkage to work with the cast pan took some trimming. Also had to buy a Lokar reverse light kit and modify that to work on this application as well. So the NSS is in the shifter and the reverse lights are an external switch on the side of the transmission. Also made a momentary/on switch box for the lockup converter. Bases are covered for electrical. I think.
Notice one bracket is for the reverse switch and one is for the shifter cable.
Notice one bracket is for the reverse switch and one is for the shifter cable.
Here is where the CRITCAL attention to detail lies with these transmissions. The adjustment here will either burn the clutches up or make the transmission not work properly. The plunger must be fully engaged at WOT. No exceptions. Then when the throttle is released, the measurement from the base of the boss the plunger slides into to the end of the plunger should be .82”-.86”. If it’s too short, then you need to adjust the throttle arm to have a longer pivot from the center of the throttle mechanism. If it’s too long, shorten the pivot distance. See here http://www.extremeautomatics.com/assets/pdf/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf
Treblig
Well-Known Member
Don't forget:
Treblig
Well-Known Member
Depending on how they are built they can handle 500 HP>
Gearstar 200-4R Overdrive Transmission - Chevy High Performance Magazine
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Very nice work Clinteg. The 200R4 is the best automatic trans I ever had the pleasure of running. You are going to love it.
It did take me 2 tries to get the torque converter freeplay correct (clearance of sliding converter back and forth in the trans.). I dug it out of some GM tech info, but forget what it was now. What measurement did you end up with?
It did take me 2 tries to get the torque converter freeplay correct (clearance of sliding converter back and forth in the trans.). I dug it out of some GM tech info, but forget what it was now. What measurement did you end up with?
Treblig
Well-Known Member
One important issue with the 200R4 on a Mopar using the TCI adapter (I don't know if this applies to other brands of adapters??). I found that I had to have a 3/8 spacer welded onto the GM torque converter lugs to get good front pump engagement. For some reason the TCI adapter moves the transmission too far back. You might get it to work good with your set up but I didn't want to have any problems and the folks that made the 1800 stall torque converter didn't charge very much to weld the spacers onto the lugs.
Treblig
Treblig
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
Set that TV correctly. Wide open throttle, the TV should be all the way back. I've had leakage problems on mine the last couple years. Had to rebuild it last year due to leaking through the vent, worn clutches, etc. Still have a bit of leakage this year. going to try a catch can. I beat the hell out of that tranny for years. Burnouts, rolling burnouts, street racing, track racing, etc... I like it. I'd like it more if I could figure out the leak though. I'd definitely do it again. I can cruise the highway at 80 mph and 3000 rpm now with 4.10 gears and 28" tires.
It’s laying around. I’ll probably toss it.
Extreme Automatics builds them to 1000hp.
I ended up with about 1/8” of end play on mine. Used some spacers provided by FTI.
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