200-4R Behind a 340 and Reid Bellhousing Build

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Sounds like you've had some bad luck with some mopar transmission rebuilders. There are a lot more chevy rebuilders out there than mopar; that's for sure. I don't even rebuild the 700 or 2004 anymore because everybody and their brother are undercutting each other. I'm no purist, but I am cost-conscious and it would be difficult for me to invest 6k in a trans but that's because I can put together one myself to handle 1,000 hp for less than a grand. Chrysler was the only company to retain their own overdrive when diesels starting making gobs of torque; Chevy and Ford opted for the allison; knowing their stock offerings were inadequate. Chevy's th400 based overdrive might be a contender but it's electronic; unlike the 90-95 mopar od.
 
Yeah i get that. We all have our strengths and weaknesses. I dont currently have the time or inclination to build a transmission. I have my hands full with my projects. I got to looking under tye car and its gona take a little bit to do the crossmember but im down for it.
 
I have Extreme Automatic's Stage 2 version in my'68 A-Body. It's the best daily use and weekend racing automatic I have ever driven. An injected 408 Magnum spins it with just over 500 ft lbs of torque. It transformed the car, and when combined with the efi; these two upgrades are the best thing that I ever did to my old Mopar.

I opted for a custom 3 carbon fiber clutch lock-up torque converter from Precision of New Hampton. When locked up in 4th, it drops the engine speed about 350-400 rpms. That's at cruising speed, but the converter flashes at 3700rpm under more throttle with the lock-up feature turned off. It's like having a 5 speed automatic in my Mopar.
 
That stuff is what I otta do. How bad do I have to trash my floor? I don’t have a wire welder so I’ll have to farm out the floor and crossmember work. I thought about frame ties and a bolt in crossmember for a mount...?
 
cuda620 said:
That stuff is what I otta do. How bad do I have to trash my floor? I don’t have a wire welder so I’ll have to farm out the floor and crossmember work. I thought about frame ties and a bolt in crossmember for a mount...?
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there is no damage to the floor. you cut out the center section of the t bar crossmember and weld in USCT crossmember . its pretty straight forward .
 
jbc426 said:
I have Extreme Automatic's Stage 2 version in my'68 A-Body. It's the best daily use and weekend racing automatic I have ever driven. An injected 408 Magnum spins it with just over 500 ft lbs of torque. It transformed the car, and when combined with the efi; these two upgrades are the best thing that I ever did to my old Mopar.

I opted for a custom 3 carbon fiber clutch lock-up torque converter from Precision of New Hampton. When locked up in 4th, it drops the engine speed about 350-400 rpms. That's at cruising speed, but the converter flashes at 3700rpm under more throttle with the lock-up feature turned off. It's like having a 5 speed automatic in my Mopar.
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I have the same trans from Extreme going behind a BB. I'm interested in the converter you got from Precision. Can you reveal more as it's a custom and price please
 
dart6 said:
I have the same trans from Extreme going behind a BB. I'm interested in the converter you got from Precision. Can you reveal more as it's a custom and price please
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I bought Precision of New Hamptons Billet, 3800rpm stall converter with the 3 carbon-fiber disc lock-up clutch upgrade. If memory serves is was near the $1k price point. You stall will depend on the information you provide about your combo to them. I recommend asking for Milt. He was very helpful.

Once your transmission is mated to your motor, be sure to measure and verify the front-to-rear clearance or free play that the converter has between being pushed all the way into the transmission and pried forward. There is a critical clearance spec that eludes me as of this writing.
 
jbc426 said:
I bought Precision of New Hamptons Billet, 3800rpm stall converter with the 3 carbon-fiber disc lock-up clutch upgrade. If memory serves is was near the $1k price point. You stall will depend on the information you provide about your combo to them. I recommend asking for Milt. He was very helpful.

Once your transmission is mated to your motor, be sure to measure and verify the front-to-rear clearance or free play that the converter has between being pushed all the way into the transmission and pried forward. There is a critical clearance spec that eludes me as of this writing.
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thank you
 
I may have missed it but in the beginning you said you had it wired for a one wire lockup.do you lock it up with a dash switch?doesw it only lock in 4th gear?if its locked does it drop out by itself when it automatically goes into a lower gear or will it stall when you come to a stop?
 
cherokeechief79 said:
I may have missed it but in the beginning you said you had it wired for a one wire lockup.do you lock it up with a dash switch?doesw it only lock in 4th gear?if its locked does it drop out by itself when it automatically goes into a lower gear or will it stall when you come to a stop?
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There's a small pressure switch threaded into the 4th gear apply circuit on the valve body, so yes, it only locks up in 4th. I run the 12v through a toggle switch to turn it off. It will drop out of lock-up when I slow down, but only when it downshifts out of 4th.

I only use 4th gear when I'm on the freeway, and leave it in 3rd for around town driving. I run a 3800rpm stall converter from Precision of New Hampton that has a strong 3 carbon fiber disc lock-up clutch. The combination of high stall & lock-up affords the best of both worlds. It's like having a 5 speed automatic, as it drops the rpms between 300 & 400rpm when engaged.
 
thank you.we have a 68 cuda but I also have an 84 monte carlo with a 700r.the monte is set up so that it will only lock up if I use the toggle switch.and it will only lock up in 4th gear or OD on the shifter indicator.this is how I like it and how im used to it.if I forget to flip the switch it goes out on its own when it goes to lower gears.im only reminded that I forgot once it goes up to 4th again and bogs.this is no problem and I just flip the switch(rarely happens)im having a 200 built for another project and I weant it to work the same.the rebuilder says it should only lock up in 4th and he only has one wire coming out just like my 700r.i just want to make sure it will go out of lockup on its own when it shifts to a lower gear.now is the time to make sure while its still on his bench and empty of fluid.
thank you!
 
on this car I will use 4th often.i just want to make sure its wired up properly for what I want before he puts it in and adds fluid.my 700r was built by someone else who has passed away.
 
cherokeechief79 said:
I may have missed it but in the beginning you said you had it wired for a one wire lockup.do you lock it up with a dash switch?doesw it only lock in 4th gear?if its locked does it drop out by itself when it automatically goes into a lower gear or will it stall when you come to a stop?
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I have a switch on the shifter that is a single hot wire to the trans. The negative side is grounded internally in the trans. Post #86 I believe has a video showing how I lock it. It can be locked in any gear at any time if you want. But it’s all done manually.

One thing I found out is that you can lock the converter at idle and it really doesn’t do anything. I had accidentally locked it running up the the lanes from the pits. I noticed it acted a tad different like it wasn’t quite idling quite right or something. I looked down and saw my light was on with the converter locked when I was stopped at idle. I was under the impression that it would lock up and take off like a clutch but it doesn’t do that at all. Apparently it takes some rpm to build pressure to get enough friction from the clutch to move the car.
 
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