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It's a grant wheel with a billet horn button. I couldn't tell you the model of it. The bearing is suited for the 3/4" DD shaft. So it just depends on what FR column you're using and what you're adapting to it.

Denny is great to work with and almost always answers when you call or he'll get back to you very quickly. I really enjoyed just shooting the bull and bouncing ideas off of him. All around great guy and there to help. And the best thing of all, my car actually feels safe to drive on the streets...

Here's all the options they have in finish and materials Shorty Steering Columns

The column I used is IDT-1120160010 (which is mild steel and needs to be painted) and the bearing is AFCO AFC-30321. You'll need a 3/4" x 3/4" DD steering joint and also another that is 3/4" DD to whatever spline your steering box will be. Get a 3/4" DD shaft a little longer than what you need...

The research took more time than the actual fabrication. Luckily I found a thread where orangewagon did a very similar thing and I copied and adapted it to my application. Really it was a matter of cutting out the mounting piece from the original column, mock where the column needs to go, mark...

No problem. I cut off the mounting points from my old column. You could fab your own but the old column was junk to me so I cut it off and used it. Mounts up like the factory column Tig weld the plate on Firewall plate mod Paint everything up and you're done

Use an IDIDIT shorty column, install a bearing on the old steering column plate that attaches to the firewall, add a DD shaft. Easy peasy and not a ridiculous $1200.

Good to see you're making the upgrade Jeff! Handling and braking on mine is MUCH better than it was. Steering is nice but still a little bit tough at slow speeds. I think that if I got rid of the spool (and had a big steering wheel too) it would be even better. My buddy noticed the difference in...

Swap the ends for heim joints. That will free them up.

You need to read this thread if you're thinking about making one. Good info. 67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

Rack and pinion steering, abilty to swap most any type of engine by changing motor mounts only, makes oil pan a breeze to remove and provides more clearance for aftermarket pans. Those are a few reasons people buy them.

One thing I was wondering about and I haven't seen yet, what's the weight comparison of this setup over stock? Since the setup is mostly built from .25" steel, this makes me think that the weight will actually be quite high considering some other setups get away with using thinner steel. And...

Keeping the rear seat is going to depend on your tub, not the 4 link. You'll be fine with a mini-tub, but a full back half is going to require removing the seat probably. I have a 4 link and mini tub with the back seat (which I modded a little bit to make work). It's in the first few pages of...

There's a thread somewhere here that says that either Flaming River or IDIDIT was working on a Mopar floor shift column for A body cars. Try to search and see if you can find it. I thought they were close to coming out with it.

I used an IDIDIT shorty column. Build here: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=188396&page=7

I have one with a small diameter wheel. If the car is sitting still good luck turning it. When moving it's not bad, but not easy breezy.

This is going to make your already awesome car even more awesome!

That is simply amazing. Everything about it! Loving that color

Some people have this issue. Some don't. I was one of them who did have this issue. Cutting the seat frame on both sides and swapping the frames left to right and right to left made clearance. Not hard at all to do if required. Before when it was hitting the tub Cut/spliced

That is TUFF!

I used an IDIDIT shorty tilt column with a 3/4" DD steering shaft. I made a slight change to the factory firewall plate to install a 3/4" bearing for the steering shaft. This was the simplest way to go for my setup at the time. Sacrificed the old column Welded the mounting plates...

Have a manual Flaming River 16:1. It's a little tough at a stand still to turn but once it's moving it's fine. I also have a small steering wheel so that makes a bit of a difference too on how hard it turns. But once it's moving it's great!

Holy build batman! Amazing work!

I'm in agreement with everything here. Top pic def needs some bigger wheels. That white car looks about perfect for my taste.

That's what I was going to suggest. I actually own that rear now and glad I didn't have to build it. I think he has all the info on how to make it. He's very knowledged and insightful on them and will always help out with advice. You may look at his new setup he's putting in his Scamp too...

Ride height dropped a little since I've driven it but not much and on both sides evenly it seems. The passenger side torsion mount is the one that was rusted and I reinforced on 3 sides with new plate. I'm leaving tomorrow for a week on vacation otherwise I'd have you come over and see what...

When I tightened down the LCA pivot nut on the pass side, before I got it torqued all the way, I heard a loud POP noise like something broke. I've looked around and can't seem to find anything wrong. Driver's side seemed to go fine. Only thing I can see that's concerning me is that the QA1...

Here ya go.

Not yet. As you can see it's sideways in my garage and makes taking a side picture about impossible. I'm waiting on a temporary MC to come in from Oreilly's tomorrow so I can get some brakes on it and move it out of the garage. The aluminum one I got from Dr. Diff was bad and Dr. Diff is on...

I didn't cut mine down but instead used a button style stop. With the /6 torsion bars, I really need 2" drop spindles. Although the front end seems to have a lot of travel, I can get the front end bouncing to the point that the button will just kiss the frame. That is with the shocks out...