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Same here. I have an Awromotive pump that’s gotta go. It’s just too noisy. Been looking myself for something different that’s quiet and something that will support EFI if that comes in to play down the road. The Billet in-line pumps from Holley look pretty good and sounds like they’re quiet as...

If he has a 10 or 11 second car maybe....

I honestly couldn’t tell you. Don’t know anyone personally with the mufflers in the back like that. As previously mentioned, that’s not my car (wish it were!). It’s an Australian car that I found on the net.

Mine are Summit brand cutouts. The plug that was dangling is for the passenger side cutout. But since I moved them further forward, I have to re-route the wiring.

Thats surprising for a 3”. But I wasn’t worried about the HP loss if there was some. I moved my cutouts so that the exhaust comes straight out like an 18” extension when the cutouts are open. When they’re closed, it flows through the X pipe and mufflers. Before, the cutouts were placed after the...

The exhaust dumps in the middle of the car. We couldn’t get it the way I wanted it.

Came across it on Pinterest actually. BLOWN 440-POWERED DODGE DART CONVERTED VF VALIANT Yep. No problems accelerating or cornering but if the tank gets to about 1/4 full, this happens when I brake.

Watch around the 50 second mark and you can see what happens to the fuel pressure in my car. It’s annoying. My future plan is a custom tank or cell that fits between the frame rails flush with the trunk floor and doesn’t go up into the trunk. Found out that I use the trunk space more than I...

I was thinking 60 miles in my car because that’s all it gets when I drive. Hence why I put a 20 gallon cell in!

I have foam in mine with a sump and I still get fuel slosh when braking and it starves the pump until I level out or start accelerating again. The foam is starting to deteriorate since I am starting to find pieces in my filter. IMO, the foam is worthless and should be left out.

Mine mounted with the supplied aeromotive bracket. Looks fine but I think regulators have a cleaner look when mounted to the firewall myself.

Pros: Saves stress on your fuel pump, keeps fuel cooler, helps with vapor lock, return style regulators also usually flow better than a dead head Cons: Have to run a whole other fuel line to the back Barry Grant recommends the return line be as big or larger than the feed line. I run -8...

This. If I had the choice, I would go EFI. But EFI is not in my budget so I'm sticking with the Holley. Mileage/AFR is horrible at cruise which is why I'm going to do what PoisonDart said and start modifying the idle transition and cruise circuits. This is a much cheaper option than EFI and...

I know you probably don't have a fuel cell but here's how the they are set up. There are 2 lines on the top. One is vent and one is a fuel return line. With a regular tank, what 69_340_GTS said is what you'll need to do.

It's called an inertia switch and looks like below. That red switch will get tripped in an accident, cutting off that circuit. You can also manually trip the switch for theft deterrent. I know the '98 Rangers have them. Just go grab one from the junkyard with the pigtail harness.

X2! I also used a Ford Ranger crash switch and use it as an anti-theft device as well.

I can't say I've ever seen the regulator right in front of the pump in the rear of the car. They are usually installed under the hood close to the carb. I suppose it should still work the same but make sure you are reading fuel pressure at the carb and not at the regulator if you put it back...

The lines run under the crossmember, not through any frame/bulkhead connector or anything.

For some reason I don't have a pic of the entire fuel line routing but mine runs along my frame and subframe connectors up to the regulator in the engine bay on the inner fender.

Nope mine doesn't have any copper in it. I believe it's Redfire Metallic. Looks like this in the sun

It was already painted when I got it. Was told it's a 2006 Ford Mustang color.

A lot of people put them on the inner fender somewhere. Have seen some on the firewall and I personally think looks a lot cleaner.

+1 on the Victor. Running the Victor W2 on my stroker.

I run 8 psi on an Aeromotive SS canister style pump and with a bypass setup (was intending on going E85 eventually). If I had it to do all over again, I'd use one or two of those Walbro pumps just because of the pump noise.

That's exactly what sounds like is happening.

You'll want your return line as big as your feed line if you run a bypass setup. I also use an inertia switch to kill the fuel pump as others have mentioned. Got one for a '98 Ford Ranger. You can pick one up at the junkyard for next to nothing. I also use it as a hidden kill switch so it's...

Have a Holley 950HP on a setup similar to yours and the car is mostly street driven. With the old camshaft and ignition, the carb was great. With the bigger roller cam and new ignition system, I can't get it to idle worth a crap when in gear. My engine guy couldn't get it to idle well either...

Only thing I MIGHT be concerned with is the 3/8 line. I don't know what your setup is so that may be sufficient size line for what you're doing. I have the same 20 gallon cell too and it doesn't give any sloshing fuel readings.

If you HAVE to back your timing way off to run pump gas to prevent knocking due to higher CR's, then yes advancing your timing and running 100+ octane will give you more power (in most cases I would say). Example: I have mine turned back to 28 degrees total to run 91 at the moment with an iron...

Exactly. It gets in people's heads that higher octane fuel is going to produce more power when in reality it doesn't. It only resists detonation better in high comp engines and actually burns slower. If you don't have the compression to need it, race fuel is practically useless.