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That’s true, but I also think a more specific description of what the thread is actually about would’ve maybe been in order. I answered directly to the thread title, but had the thread been titled something like “how to set up the HDK for road racing in 100 easy steps”, I may not have even read...

All my cars have a properly set up torsion bar suspension. My preference in this hobby is to enjoy the cars the way they came. I like old cars because I like old cars. I like the way they feel on the road, and all of their eccentricities. I can drive any of our daily driven rack and pinion...

Seems the first half of your initial post was all about comparing a coil over suspension against a torsion bar suspension, exactly what I was speaking to. Just because you want to continue to the finer points of what YOU did by changing from torsion bars to coil overs is secondary to your title...

Although I’ve never had chance to enjoy the HDK system, I would say that it undoubtably handles much better than a stock torsion bar setup, which was made for ride comfort over cornering. That’s my take on it anyway.

Could it be rust they were installed with the adjusting cam not all the way bottomed out? I had to spray and beat the LCA down on the 71 Cuda I was working on, to get the hex to the next clock spot, it hasn’t all the way down. After getting it to drop all the way, the torsion bar adjusted right up.

I’m hoping you didn’t use those crappy new style UCA cam bolts, with 1/2 of the diameter shaved off of the bolt itself. When I did my 66, I used the new cam bolts that came with the kit, and they wouldn’t tighten down for ****, causing the same problem as you’re having. I started saving all the...

ah, got it. Well, I can still hook him up if he needs those, I have a few dozen of them as well, and a car on the trailer to pick apart as well.

Send me your address and I’ll send you a couple. Are you talking about the back where it goes through the LCA, or the front that goes through the K member? I have a couple dozen sets of each one, and for reference, there is a difference in the 73 and later units, the thread count changed from...

No, they do not interchange.

There is only a slight difference in the length, but the rule of thumb is coarse thread on the LCA side is 73 and up, fine thread is everything before 1973

You could always paint it with Por-15, that **** will cover it nicely, and probably never come off.

front wheels up on ramps, or blocks, or Jack stands under the LCA if you have to, and a Jack under the rear axle. That’s for checking the length of the driveshaft. If you’re checking your springs, or ride height, you want it on the tires, and bounced in the front and back a few times and allowed...

the driveshaft should also be measured under full weight.

Unless the car is on the ground and under running and driving weight, all of this is just speculation. You can be sure of nothing until all four corners are down, relaxed, and under full weight.

I believe there is a body number on the underside of the trunk lip, on the drivers side under the seal. You might be able to feel where it is by running your fingers along the underside and feeling for the indentations, then take a pic with your phone. I’m not sure is there’s any other...

that’s true, I forgot about that!

It would seem to me that a previous owner kept the 8 3/4” out of the car, and just swapped in the 7 1/4”. So, the drums would be worth saving, they will fit a small bolt pattern 8 3/4”, but the rest is not worth much, unless you have a project car that needs to roll around the driveway. I...

one of those tangs is likely broken

On the later K frame, the sway passes through the web of the K frame and he flat plates bolted underneath that the sway bar bushing seats bolt to. And, the sway bar tabs are welded to the top of the LCA, unlike the earlier style. Not sure how the early style bar would fit, except to mount it...

XHD Mopar Performance springs from Mancini at $268 a pair, best springs for the money and give a good ride height. Not sure what the OP considers cheap, but I think that’s very reasonable.

Does the aftermarket one not bolt to the lower shock bolt?

definetely try him first! Good plan!

if you know of some older Mopar guys in town, ask around if any of them can put a quickie alignment on it to get you there. My buddy does an incredibly close job of it just by sight!

Ask around to some rodders in your town for a frame shop that does old cars. They usually have someone who knows how the older cars work, and there’s usually one nearby!

Here’s a repair I did on the end of my torsion bar crossmember. I sourced a rust free end, more than I needed but it was nice to have, supported the car on stands from as far front as I could, and under the rear axle, cut out the floor pan, repaired the stub end and gusseted it inside with some...

Wow, is that a nice little drawing to have around. Thanks for sharing!

Also, if you’re looking for a 67 and up K frame, remember that the 67 unit has the pass through bolt type idler arm, which are hard to find and expensive. Most folks will look for a 68-72 unit with the ball joint type, or a 73 and up if they want the spool type motor mounts. The 64-66 K frame...

How do those adjuster threads look? They are a biotch to move if they’ve been sitting in the same place for a long time. Repeated pre soaking is a must, followed by some heat, and maybe a long breaker bar an leverage. I hasten to use an impact, but may suggest it for the concussion action, it...

Truck and van 8 3/4” stuff is actually a pretty good sell. Take the center and list the rest on the truck sites, all that stuff will sell.

The drop link for early A bodies is now being repopped, but at a cost of over $200, maybe close to $250. I don’t remember exactly who has it, but it is one of the big suspension companies.