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My 73 Duster

She's going to be 50 in September, owned for 48 years. She's sailed two oceans and the Panama Canal, England for three years. Three years of restoration began back in late November 2016

My 340 is:

2780930-340-5 Dated 7-11-69

I used The Permatex Ultra Gray Gasket Maker in a 13 oz cartridge. Easy to use with the caulk gun. It fills the large gap front and rear with no leaks.

My 73 OEM driver's side mount (340) was the same bushing as my old 318 one, just narrower at the block.

Yes, but what a fuel!

How many miles on them? Seems to be firing well, good color on the insulator.

I would never use synthetic oil in an older motor.

Before loading up the cylinders, I would bore scope them to see what the cylinders look like. If there's nothing apparent, then drop the pan and look at the crank. It has to be broken-down anyway, just my point of view.

I run 91 Premium Non-Ethanol in my '70 340, timing is also at 34 w/mild cam. I don't trust anything lower than 91.

I bought one from Shop - Hiltop Auto Parts. He might have another one lying around.

I think you should volunteer your services. LOL

No problem, I believe they are different. Canton's is a CNC-machined billet aluminum filter plate with an O-ring instead of a gasket.

My Canton plate was used on a 71 340 block

I used a Canton racing oil filter plate 22-575...end of problem.

Mine was leaking after my build and found that my high volume pump and 80psi pressure was too much against that factory plate. Just not enough holes.

CV761C, I don't like using GM parts! It's a rule I have, like NAPA parts for NAPA cars.

I ended up installing one I had for 30+ years and never used it. Please for give me it's an A/C delco one. Just got back from the local car show and she ran quiet. It must be a at the correct flow rate.

I'll give it a shot, damn thing is pricy for sure.

I'm using a CL20-210-2 cam because in need vacuum for power brakes. The elimination of all associated parts has already been done. The noise is definitely coming from inside the valve, chatter idling in park. Whistle begins after its in gear.

Engine is a fresh build, all new gaskets and seals. It does seal tightly at cover and valve.

Yes, it's a thick wall hose, no collapsing on any part of the hose and connections are tight. The valve has chatter which tells me that it is opening and closing rapidly. At idle, no sound of a whistle, it begins as soon as you put it into drive from park.

Used a stethoscope to narrow it down. It's the pcv, replace it and all goes quiet for awhile. It's the oddest thing to last only for a short period of time. Hose is new and routed to rear a carb base. Noisy with air cleaner off.

The last one I used was a V165, but it didn't stay quiet for too long. Lasted about 300 miles.

Vac is at 15/16 @ idle. Only begins to make noise once in gear and cruising.

Yes, valve is in the cover and it's baffled. I'm using a HV pump too which as you say "throws a lot of oil around. Just need to find the PCV that can work.

On my third valve now. Every PCV I have used last for a short time (500 miles) before it begins to produce a whine noise. It doesn't matter whether it's an OEM one or aftermarket. Any insight?

I've been using Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 10W-30 with High Zinc. Best I've found for my '70 340 flat tappet cam.

I'm still running the original reluctor and mine is a uniform measurement. IMO some aftermarket reluctors may not be built from quality materials or workmanship.