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It is physically impossible for fuel to leave the float bowl and travel down the fuel line to the tank. As said above, the fuel is evaporating out of the float bowl. Modern fuels contain a lot of ethanol which vaporizes easily. When the car has been sitting for a few days first crank the...

I have filled them with solder before with no issues. I prefer solder as it is soft and wont impact anything should it come loose and go through the engine.

The thing is, you can adjust the float level to wherever you want. There are two many variations to say it has to be a certain way. Fuel makeup and therefore density, air cleaner restriction (on the vents), engine angle, fuel pump pressure and many other variables all affect the fuel level in...

Your new carb was set by the manufacturer, but at what fuel pressure, with what fuel, and with or without an aircleaner? You need to set them again, on the vehicle, in real life conditions.

Set the float levels to the bottom of the sight glasses. You should just be able to see the level lap a little if you rock the car. IMO and experience mid way up the hole, in a Holley based carb, is too high.

Is it possible that your trusted fuel gage is wrong, and now your fuel pressure actually higher? Are you running different fuel than before, possibly with more ethanol? I agree, drop the float levels to slightly below the holes. Did you recently switch to the cheesy plastic float level sight...

Shitty modern fuels full of ethanol. It turns to vapor easier than gasoline..... thus the many vapor lock issues. Try running real 100% gasoline and see if it is better. In these parts the only real gasoline you can buy with no ethanol (other than avgas or race fuel) is Chevron 94 octane.

The running on when you shut it off is not related to timing or ignition, there is no ignition when it is shut off. Running on or dieseling is normally caused by the throttle blades being open too far allowing enough air / fuel into the engine that it diesels. This is usually due to not...

I have had this happen when the factory kickdown was not aligned correctly and side loaded the linkage.

Yes. A bigger line is absolutely beneficial especially with an engine driven pump that sucks through the line. Modern fuels with ethanol vaporize more easily under these conditions. This is most apparent under high fuel demands....the highest of which is winding out in third. At the very least...

A kick back on starting is more likely related to too much initial ignition timing.

You can only really check and verify the float levels with the car parked level and running. The next morning, shut off after sitting all night is irrelevant. Fuel in the intake after removing the carb..... all you had to do was move the carb linkage once or twice while taking it off and the...

Run option #1 with a restrictor in the return line (except the fuel "in" is the bottom of the regulator). Make sure that your pickup sock is clear ( or get rid of it) and that you have a 3/8 pickup and suction line. Rustys idea with the wix filter is also a good idea.

Plastic and glass filters can not only crack in a crash. Heat, vibration, chafing, overtightened clamps etc can all cause them to leak. They are just not, IMO, good practice. If they were a good idea why has no auto (or industrial) manufacturer ever used them?

Did you check the floats to make sure they are not full of fuel?

Vacuum secondaries only open as the engine requires (when properly tuned) and therefore do not require an accelerator pump on the secondary side to help the engine overcome a stumble. Double pump is generally a term that applies to holleys only. Vacuum secondaries only have one pump and can be...

My local princess auto (like harbor freight) carries a cheapo set of fractional, number and letter drills. Not great quality but affordable and all you need for what you are doing. The snap on trucks also carry number drills and will sell you individual ones. If you know any aircraft mechanics...

They are standard fine thread screws. Any good fastener suplier should be able to set you up with Philips head equivalents. #10-32 I think. I have replaced them before with aviation hardware.

650 double pump. It is sized appropriately for the 340. For performance, with a 4 speed you can't beat a double pump because it has mechanical secondaries. When you're shift gears you let your foot off the gas. With a vacuum sec it takes the secondaries a moment to get the vacuum signal and...

Let me know if you can't find yours. I think k I have a couple spares and will throw one in the mail.

You are missing a part. There is a special threaded pin and nut that goes through the large hole on the lever on your carb. The throttle cable and lockdown both book up to it.

That could also (and more likely) indicate not enough initial timing, so the idle speed screw is turned in too far causing it to idle on the main metering circuit. You can verify this by looking down the throat of the carb while it is idling. If you see fuel being pulled through the Venturi's it...

First, you need to understand that the idle mixture screws are just that - they only control the mixture at idle. Once the throttle blades are open off idle the idle circuit is out of the picture, so the drive-ability problems are not affected by the idle mixture screws. Driving fuel mixture is...

Easiest way to drain a holley.....have a shallow container such as a litre oil container with one side cut out, put it under the end of the float bowl and pull out only one of the lower screws. The fuel will drain from the screw hole into the container. No problem.

Holley, by far. They are simple to tune and adjust, parts and information on modifying them are everywhere. I don't buy the line that they need constant tweaking - all the ones that I have had, once set up stay exactly the same.

Bingo, listen to this advice.

Advancing the timing helps fuel economy. As stated, you should probably have more initial advance, and a vacuum advance over and above the initial and mechanical will improve fuel economy. This, as well as getting your A/F ratio where it should be and you will see some gains.

Whitepunkonnitro is spot on. People love to think things are better because they cost more. In 25 years in aviation. I can honestly say that I have never seen anything other than 100 octane low lead. They higher octane fuels were phased out years ago. Granted my career has mostly been around...

This is absolutely 100% correct. It is kind of like claiming that your kitchen sink is leaking, draining back out the faucet that the water came in through, and putting a check valve in the faucet to prevent it from happening......the fuel evaporates, period. New fuels, and some carburetor...

There is lots of good information here, read it all, soak it in and do some tuning. Most important, timing HAS to be set properly before playing with the carb. Even MORE important, and pay attention here - given any engine - if you put a bigger carb on it with stock jetting it will run...