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Another update! Sorry these are so slow. Maybe I should have named the thread "Do I Have Time To Fix It Right?" Was able to get a loaner screw-in type tester from AutoZone. Didn't have time to test all 8 cylinders today, so I ran three interesting ones (engine cold, WOT) Driver's Side 1 - 120...

Thanks for the feedback, all. I agree those numbers are quite low. However, they're not THAT much lower than when I ran this test 7/8 years ago with a threaded type tester from AutoZone. Those were in the 110-115 range. Anyhow, I will try again with a loaner screw-in type and see if things look...

I also snapped a pic of the plugs. The two sides look noticeably different — the driver's side are darker colored, while the passenger's side has a bit of toasty brown build-up.

Ok guys, sorry for the slow turn-around here, been a busy week. Yesterday I ran a compression test. Drove the car around for 10 minutes to get the engine up to temp, then pulled the plugs. The tester I have is a manual push-in type from a friend — it was difficult to get it seated properly on...

I've had a look at that bulkhead connector and don't remember any major corrosion but it has been a while. There are lots of little electrical things that seem problematic -- for example, the voltmeter I installed in the dash shows a ~1V drop/rise as the turn signal goes on/off. Not sure if...

Kind of turns into a feedback cycle, doesn't it? Car runs poorly -> I don't enjoy driving it as much -> I don't drive it as much -> it sits a lot -> it runs even more poorly. I'm excited to break that spiral!

Thanks for all the advice so far! I have been on a lot of message boards for various things over the years (mostly computer-related) and FABO really is as good as it gets. If the downside is 47 different ideas, that's way better than 0. Sounds like the consensus first thing to do is a...

Added a bit more info above. The heads are definitely stock. dano, those are all good suggestions and things I'd like to do eventually, and you're right that it's difficult without more knowledge of the internals of the engine. I'm not opposed to pulling heads at some point (have helped a...

I've been a member here since I got my 73 Duster back in 2009 as a high school senior. Kind of hard to believe I've had her for 11 years already! We've had some awesome times including a 10-day road trip down Route 66 when I moved to CA for grad school and having her as my daily driver for my...

Gauges installed over the past couple days! Everything but the oil pressure line is hooked up and working. Please excuse the ugly zip-tie mounting as I don't have a drill handy. I may actually leave the ties and just cut off the ends. Looks like voltage is kind of high at 15.5V - from reading...

Good point, I should probably update that :oops: I'm in the Palo Alto area these days.

Looks like I won't get to this until a couple of weeks now. I found a good spot to mount the gauges in place of the factory ashtray/cig lighter fixture. There's some bits of crumbled padding/insulation up under there - anything I need to be cautious around? We've been having asbestos abatement...

New gauges are set to get here tomorrow. I went with an Autometer 3 gauge set, water temp/volts/oil pressure since I may do the ammeter bypass a bit later on. In the meantime, am I looking at the right sender to remove and replace with the oil pressure line?

I've got a similar miss on my car sometimes. Just found a leak in a vacuum hose, but haven't driven since fixing it, but that might clear it up.

One perk of living on the West coast, I can post a question before bed and get an answer in the morning! Sounds like either #2 or #3 is the way to go then. I'll try to get a pic of the oil sender to verify that I'm looking at the right thing there too. Out of curiosity, what is that Thermal...

Hi guys, I'm planning to install an aftermarket water temp gauge on my car. The engine is a 360, stock cast iron manifold. While I'm at it I was thinking I'd add an oil pressure gauge, if it's not much more of a hassle. Was thinking of going with mechanical gauges for simplicity. Are any of...

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to mess with it tomorrow morning, may try to re-install the Hayden the way you suggested. I don't think the bushing slides through the pulley, although I hadn't thought to try installing it that way. I was trying to slide it on the exposed part with the pulley...

It's a stock steel pulley for an AC car. Kind of a mucked up pulley system since the car was switched from AC to no AC a while back without changing the pulleys. But anyways, not a thicker pulley as far as I know. Is the pulley mount on the water pump moveable?

Hi guys, In preparation for putting a thicker radiator in my car, I swapped the stock fan clutch to the Hayden 2765 that's been discussed on FABO a lot. I used the included bushing when installing it, however, the engagement between the shaft at the end of the water pump and the recessed hole...

Thanks, that helps. I just ordered a new alternator mount so I'm going to see if things work reasonably well with that added. Then if alignment/tensioning is still a big issue, I'll go to the correct non-AC pulleys. Will post some before-after pics!

Here's a better picture of the way the alternator is currently mounted. Is this the AC bracket or does it look more like a total hack job? Doesn't seem right having the pivot supported only on the engine side, and that could explain why the belt is hitting the water pump in the first place. Hard...

I guess my real question is, do I need to worry about the alternator pulley, or will it be close enough? Since the alt works, as far as I know, I'd rather not have to buy a new one just to get the right pulley, but I don't have easy access to a press to change just the pulley either. So if I...

How tough is swapping the alt pulley? It's listed on both sites as a press fit so I'm assuming it requires a hydraulic press?

Appreciate the pics kuda. The double-groove alt pulley - this was an AC engine but the PO removed the AC and I guess just hacked together a pulley set-up that would work. Sounds like that's a common thing people do. Also, clearly my alt. mounting is NOT the same as what you have, so I'll...

My water pump pulley is a single groove and it lines up with the outermost groove on the crank, does the non-AC set up have a different pulley there? Also, what's the difference in mounting hardware for the alternator? I don't know if all the pulleys are the "proper" diameter/depth - they all...

After tightening up the belt to spec a couple of weeks ago, the belt snapped today on my drive home. Not surprised at all, the alt was really not in good alignment when we pulled it tight enough. Can anyone describe the proper belt routing for a non-ac car with power steering, and maybe what...

The back pulley is the one rubbing and yes, it's a little looser than spec. I've tried tightening it up before but need to get another pair of hands out with me to get it up to spec.

Sorry for the weird rotation - camera phone. Top photo shows the pulley alignment. Bottom one shows the rib on the water pump that's rubbing the corner of the belt.

Appreciate the info guys, let me make sure I have it straight. To go back to the "correct" routing, I'd have to get a different fan pulley, right? It seems like as it is, the front slot in the crank pulley lines up with water pump and PS only, and the middle and back slots line up with...

Anyone ever had problems on a 360 with the alternator belt rubbing against the water pump housing? Is it a tension thing, wrong alternator bracket, wrong belt size, or all of the above? I'll try to get a picture up later today - the corner of the belt's just being slowly chafed off by one of the...