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looks like your already close to the top off your tire with the wheel opening and I defiantly agree with abodyjoe

posting on unisteer

been awhile I believe that I had to mess with the hoses to make it work

I have the hemi denny HDK system in my a body with power rack and used the Unisteer pump this is for a b body but doesn't make any difference on the pump https://www.jegs.com/i/Unisteer/668/8010730-01/10002/-1 as I remember I got it from Summit they didn't list it had to make a part number you...

Nope. Not true. The tie rod diameters were the same for all A-bodies, 9/16". C-bodies ran 11/16" tie rods, and while that used to be a nice way to upgrade the strength it's unnecessary now. The weak part is not the 9/16" tie rod end, it's the spit tube adjuster. Now you can buy tubular adjusters...

And the tie rod diameter bigger is better. bigger is always better

one thing to do for sure if not already there change the tie rods and adjusting sleeves over to the 11/16 as apposed to the 9/16 can be used from different models there are several kits out there that have everything needed pick what you want in brand and price sometimes you can piece mill for...

as long as you have 3/4 DD on the shaft and steering box it will but I'm sure you don't so the answer is no it will not I've been using this type of joint for sometime you'll have to machine flats on the end of the shaft to accept the DD and what ever spine is on the steering box while apart you...

here's a 69 that I did a few years ago and it's long gone now don't remember much had 16" wheels tires? believe the springs were +1 but don't bet on that might have flipped the front spring perch on this to lower some (yes purchased one) sorry I can't help more have done several A bodies and...

Like most of us I was dealing with this a few years back and called ESPO and they couldn't provide much information good luck sometimes we have a habit of over thinking things

I believe he did and I sure don't remember any thing like that at one time in Indiana they had a rear bumper height law because they were getting jacked way out of site

you could always try hot and froze

Answer is on his web site HDK Front Suspension Parts For Mopars

Magical ? don't believe you will find the answer unless someone has the exact setup IMO again IMO your taking the car way to high I like the wheel opening middle of tire or less level or very slight rake IMO your setup would either have lots of rake or the front will be way to high the 108 wheel...

I would venture to say your in need of a complete steering rebuild -- pretty easy the hardest parts would be the upper ball joints

"Tighten the draw bolt when the steering wheel is centered, wheels pointing straight ahead" -- makes no difference how things are pointed it pivots at the K member has nothing to do with alignment just holds your center link in place in ratio to the pitman arm

WD40 would be worse than salt don't even consider it

I've used B body stuff on A bodies several times -- works fine they are a little heavier duty upper and lower ball joints same as 73 + disc brake a body and the tie rod ends are larger diameter threads

should have went -1 I made the same mistake added weight like you did even flipped the hanger

The shaft is two pieces that is designed to collapse did you by chance pull it out a little making it longer that's the only thing I can think of that would cause this unless some way you have the housing assembled wrong

Pressure line probably a 5/8-18 inverted flare fitting ??????? I'm in the process of changing over to all rubber hydraulic hose using what the automotive world calls AN the industrial world calls it JIC you can buy an adapter from Summit to do this and use what's called -6 on the other end being...

If your not wanting factory correct here's a great item to use in place of the factory bearing fits perfect and use a T bolt hose clamp around the housing just did this to mine 1 Inch Inside Diameter, 2.0472 Inch Outside 60604709 - MSC and 2 to 2.31 Inch Hose, 3/4 Inch Wide x T Bolt 61585337 - MSC

Been tweaking and since I was having problems steering and shifting (833 4 speed) with the manual rack - pinion I switched to power WOW what a difference got the power rack from Speedway for a T Bird and power pump with brackets from Unisteer which fits and looks good

Holly cow batman if your dropping it that much IMO there's not spring left in the torsion bars the rest is just plain bad and UGLY again IMO

As I know he's busy I didn't really want to bother him but sent Denny a message anyway

Thanks but when I bought my HDK Denny thought I was using power instead of manual the only difference was some spacers

Getting my Scamp dialed in and as I'm not a young man I'm wanting to change the manual rack and pinion over to power but haven't quite figured out the pump and hoses needed to do this on a small block. Any help - direction - pictures - parts needed would be great

As I have access to what's needed I'm going to try and make my own looks like the fittings are a dash which equates to JIC and AN like -6 -8 etc

Thanks but looks like what I have which hit the header I was hoping someone could let me know the proper one to use so I don't have to hassle with returns

Power steering A body - later Saginaw pump - 383 low deck - what pressure hose do I use