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Yeah I would try bending the gas pedal if there isn’t any other adjustment left

Maybe check your regulator first, take it apart and make sure there isn't any junk in it. I would also pull the fuel pump apart for the same. I have a big end copy of that pump on my dart, been on there for over 10 years with no trouble. On the throttle not going wide open, need more info...

Hard to tell in the pic, but does that hole go anywhere? It does look like the alignment hole for a metering block.

Check your vacuum at idle, in gear for an auto trans, divide the vacuum number in half, that is where I would start for a power valve number.

I would try one size in the primary first and see how it acts

You answered your own question, if it runs better on ethanol it needs to be leaned out. The more ethanol the leaner you get with the same jet size. But where you lean it out is the question, idle, transition, cruise or wot. If it loads up at idle I would start there.

That is what we ended up doing with it as well, until he went to a carter electric pump and bypassed the mechanical pump completely.

Used one of those plastic in line pumps on a buddies 390 ford pick up to get it home after the mechanical one quit, it was not near enough pump.

As mentioned above, pull apart to make sure there is no junk in it, check float etc. My dad bought a NOS 2 barrel for his 383 Newport, it all checked out, put it on and been running for 5-6 years with no problems

Go with the 1200 unit.

Is it after the engine is to full temp? Could it be boiling the fuel in the carb? I ran into that once last summer, ran like crap and felt like it wanted to quit every time I let off the throttle.

what kind of fuel pump? Electric or mechanical? What's fuel pressure at? It might be time to pull carb apart and blow out the main body and metering blocks, could be some trash in it. Also Check fuel filter. Also, could your o2 set up be off? Bad ground, bad o2 sensor?

When I was looking into using this set up to control timing IIRC you set initial timing and then put that info into handheld controller.

Yes it will, your making a regular dizzy do the same thing as a lean burn by locking it out, ie no mechanical advance

10 percent ethanol in our state, MN, but you can buy BP 92 without ethanol for small engines and old cars.

Holley 750 DP, throw a pro form main body on it with replaceable air bleeds if you feel they are needed.

Gotcha, sounds like more a supply problem from your fuel pump to the command center pump then?

I think the main reason behind command center was to be able to easily Install EFI without having to run anther fuel line for return. Although it does need a vent ran back to the tank. The command center only holds about a quart of fuel, a carberater has about half of that amount in the float...

What makes you think that is what happened? What did your fuel pressure say?

Let us know how it goes, looks like a good upgrade to me. I wanted to run E85 and tune with a wideband, this would take care of both plus get efi and be able to run the ignition as well. win win win

FI tech offers a unit for power adder, if you use it to run your ignition it will pull timming and you can set the A/F ratio target you want, according to the specs on thier website. I would like to hear from someone using one to see how they perform

Be sure to check the bowl and metering block with a straight edge. Over tightening the bolts can warp them.

What kind of temps does the engine run? Are getting fuel boiling/vapor lock type issue on extended drives? Also remember you A/F meter is a tool not the be all end all as far as your fuel mixture, fuel type, like stated a few posts ago , and what the engine may need can be different. IE when I...

Nice work! been tossing the idea around also. I have a pro form main body on 750, and wonder if I would get enough fuel without changing boosters? I have read about a few guys doing it on low HP motors, my 340 is only 350 or so.

Looks like your boiling the fuel just before the pump running that line so close to the header. Does it act up when it's warmer outside? I ran my line up on the inner fender.

As long as both carbs are the same, square or spread bore, it will bolt on. Will need that mopar throttle arm to hook up auto trans kickdown if using one. Might need to change out power valve depending on which one is in the carb, and possibly rejet if running rich or lean. On the edelbrock...

Not sure they know what they are talking about. They can be opened up just like the primary. http://www.dragracermag.com/solve-idle-dilemmas-without-misusing-throttle-plat Here is some good reading. Have blades in the secondary been messed with that you can tell? You may be able to loosen...

If you get your timing set and jetted and temp still climbs you may not be getting enough air flow through the radiator at speed. Get everything else dialed first though and go from there.

Give it as much initial as it will take with out kicking the starter back. You will need to recurve the dizzy for total timing. As far as jets I think you are pretty close with 74 primary. When does the temp come up? Idle or cruise?