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So everything is in a different state. When I pick the engine up after it’s finished I’ll get those parts, and send some pictures. Then you can see if you’ll still want then.

Machine shop checked it and informed me that I should buy a new one. That crank isn’t recommended to be ground anymore I guess.

I’ll have to get back to you on that. It’s a Scat forged crank that was ground .010 once, Scat 60 6.123” rods. I also have a set of the same rods with forged 9.8:1 pistons hooked to them that I pulled out of the motor last year.

Crank and rods are junk. The line bore needs to be done again. Clearances were off to begin with. Engine builder and his machine shop f***ed me last year. Scrap it and start over.

1, 2 and 3 rod bearings. Game over.

I gave up on the idea. I’m saving money for a whole different engine instead.

Since no one knows, I gave up on trying to find some headers. Still using the junk 1 5/8 Hookers. I would call TTI once a month, and they’d tell me “8 weeks” until they had some in stock.

It may be that. The motor still has to come out due to the oil pressure issue. I’m going to have to look at all the bearings and clean the debris out of the system.

It only has 30ish passes on it. There’s a long list of things he had screwed up when redoing this engine, so I have no doubt it was an assembly issue.

I’ll be certain to have a conversation with the engine builder. He won’t be doing the next one.

Well I think I’m too late. Lots of copper in the filters. Third oil change for this engine, and I think that’s a bit too much to expect from a new engine.

Yeah just some junky 1 5/8 Hookers. Was looking at the Kevco M302 pan. Deeper with some baffles, but not wider.

Well, that’s a long story. I didn’t put the engine together. I didn’t know it was in there until the car made some passes. The guy who did took it upon himself to do that, and I’ve expressed my concern over the issue. I’d like to put the old pump on, but of course the pan has to come off. Couple...

I’ll take the steering link off. My motor is running low on oil pressure at higher RPMs on the track with a high volume pump and the stock pan. Thought about just dumping an extra quart in the pan, but not sure if that’ll fix it. Either the pickup is too close to the pan, or oil isn’t getting...

Can the oil pan on a 360 in a 70 Duster be pulled without lifting the engine, or pulling the engine out completely? Want to put a deeper pan on, but if the motor has to lift out then I won’t bother for now.

So my engine is at the machine shop, and the guy there told me I should buy new rods for my 408 rebuild. Said that by the time I spend the money on new bolts (proprietary to Scat) and have the rods resized I could just buy a new set of rods. First I wondered if I truly need new bolts to begin...

I guess since you’re good with power numbers, do you think the new cam with the bigger headers would be worth at least .25 in the 1/8 mile? Also freshening up the engine. Still have to decide if it needs new pistons, but at least it will have some total seal rings. The engine was setup to run...

Interesting. Any other suggestions? I think right now I have the minimum travel recommended by Calvert. I didn’t want to change my K member since the weight savings didn’t seem worth it for the cost.

I looked for the 5303. Not easy to find a set.

Was looking at the Hemi Denny setup. My lower control arm is bent from a tie rod breaking many years ago. Figured now is a good time to upgrade things and possibly save some weight.

Unless race season gets pushed back further I’d like to be running by June 6th. I dread the thought of putting bigger headers in. The Hookers are a mother to put the bolts in the head.

Obviously it would be nice to have actual numbers on 1 5/8 vs 1 7/8 headers. 20 or more is enough for me to say it’s worth the money. Trying to squeeze out every tenth I can.

30-40 is enough to make it worth it to me. The 1/8 mile track is in Montana. We raced in Seattle this past August.

Any educated guesses on the power I’d gain by going from the 1.625”/3” headers to a 1.875”/3.5” header with my setup?

108* LSA. My headers go into 3” exhaust through an x-pipe. Probably 3’ long after the collectors.

Thinking of upgrading my 1 5/8 Hooker Competition headers while my engine is pulled. Curious if there would be a significant power increase by using a larger primary tube setup. This is what I have: 408, around 11.6:1 Ported Performer RPM heads 65cc chambers, 270/232 @.500, 280/240 @.600...

Well the trans is coming out next, but when it goes back in you can bet there will be loctite. That'd be bad at 6000 rpm and 120 mph.

Yeah warm. Wide ring gaps and forged pistons. Was originally put together to handle 250 horse nitrous jets.

Worst hole was 9%. Most were 6%. Pretty damn good for so many passes. I think the Amsoil has a lot to do with it... Had a panic attack when I tried to start it up to get it warm for the test. It would knock every time it turned over which I though may have been the starter. Pulled the valve...

Yeah 050, 296 adv. What's good leak down numbers? The rings were gapped for nitrous, but I cannot remember the exact amount since it was so long ago.