I have a couple of Fel-Pro head gasket sets, one of which is a 1008. Both of them are missing several holes that both my block and head have them. I have a 1970 340 with X-heads. The image below shows a couple of missing holes in red, and one hole in yellow that is a lot smaller than the...
My 340 overheated and one of the heads warped. The machine shop says its because whoever put the engine together the last time didn't use lock washers on the head bolts. They said they could tell because the bolts dug groves into the head. Does this make sense? The ARP replacement bolts I...
LoL Duster 360. That's a sweet sounding Cuda. I actually posted a video of my car on Youtube the first day I got it running but I can't find it anymore...
I'm sure it's just a matter of me getting it right Jim. I really doubt the previous owner did anything to the cam. Good to know it was degreed. Like everyone said, I'll start with the timing and if that doesn't bring te desired result, I'll look into the carb. It was pretty nasty when I opened...
Ok - I'm having a REALLY stupid moment. I see the Timing Tape on the link below. The instructions say BTC is always to the right of the stock mark and shows the tape marks moving counterclockwise wise around the balancer.
But look carefully at this picture of my engine. It says "Before"...
Yes Jim - we'll you better than others the struggles I've had with this. I have found and fixed a lot. Maybe it's time to fire her up again and see what a difference all the changes made. Happy Easter!
Rob - just got the headlight kit in today. It was a breeze with your instructions...
Timing has been a challenge. How do you tell what the timing is when the water pump housing hides the mark beyond about 12 degrees Before TDC? Do I need to buy a special timing gun?
I'm not looking to start a word war over which cam is the best to use. I know Lunati and Comp make great cams for modern builds. But I'm stuck with what I got for now - I can't afford to drop another $400 into my car for a new cam.
I'm restoring 70 340 Duster. No plans for the strip, I...
I always changed my oil when it looked like it was getting dirty. Never considered the breakdown of the viscosity modifiers. Guess it's time to change.
If you are going to roll the dice anyway, why not try fillin the cracks with JB Weld? I once patched a cracked water pump housing with and it held for years. But it wasn't on any kind of a performance engine.
Someone once told me, "unless you have the BEST, you will always want BETTER." Well, I can't afford a fully blown 426 Hemi, so I'm going to be perfectly content with what little I have. After all, it's about having fun.
Just throwing some things out to consider since you said it was running fine at one point. Bad fuel? Dirty fuel filter? Ignition box starting to crap out?
I need to replace a 5/8" Heater Hose Nipple with a 1/2" to mate to a new radiator core. Does anyone know of a tool made to remove the nipple? I don't want to break it off on the intake manifold.