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Agree with rusty, how fare does the clutch pedal move before the through out bearing touches the fingers on the clutch? Clutch fork clipped into bell housing?

where is it leaking at?

weak spring on bearing, or your not getting it all the way on the fork.

was driving my coupe around a show. Car has a hydraulic clutch, all wilwood stuff. Pedal got a lot stiffer and only comes back about halfway, I can pull it back up but is still stiff and stays down. Still shifts ok. Is the master hanging up or the slave going out? Other?

pics would help, but sound like a modified rod.

The two I have both have that bend.

Having fitment issues, I have a QuickTime bellhousing for a small block, behind a 392 hemi. When I put the throughout bearing on the fork I get a lot of interference and hard to move. Thinking I have the wrong pivot bracket or the wrong fork. I didn’t set this up originally so just eliminating...

still debating this, I may leave it dry, never had one hang up on me. This thing is a ***** to get the clutch out. Motor and trans have to come out the front as a unit.

Doing a clutch on my Chrysler coupe. Has a 833 4spd in it.This is the first time I have ever received a tube of spline lube. It's a small black tube, says spline lube on it. Done plenty of clutch's, and have never used such a thing. Any body else ever use something like it?

Third and fourth pic, fingers look very close to the disk center hub. Thinking pressure plate is bad. And in pic 1 and 2, is the bearing broken away from the center sleeve?

I have a wilwood master and slave, on my car. I get 1.3 inch on the master and 1.25 on the slave. I would do as Del said and set it up on the bench. Can you call the maker of the bearing and find out what the stroke is supposed to be?

have you tried Liberty.

yep, spring clip holds that on.

Glad you got it working.

Is the side cover in neutral?

Did you use heavy grease to hold them. Do they slide on smoothly off the trans.

I put trans and side cover in neutral, apply heavy grease to the shift forks to hold them. And drop the cover on.

Just looking at the pics again. Is that bleed valve pointing down? if so you will never get the air out. My wildwood master has a 1 1/2 inch stroke, and needs it all.

How much stroke are you getting on the master cyl. and slave cyl? Who made the master cylinder? I have that same slave cylinder on my hot rod and get 1-1/4 inch stroke, but I am also running the matching master cylinder.

Second pic, look at the chunks out of that gear on the right. I would have it checked out and new bearings put in.

If the case is aluminum then it's an OD. If you want to run the OD, late 70's early 80's dodge trucks are a good source for a trany that has the shifter pad for the E body. The OD parts don't mix with non OD parts.

Tail shaft is shorter and a different shifter location, behind cross member on A body. Long tail shaft and shifter in front of cross member on the b body.

AS long as you get a OD bell for the slanty it will work just fine.

The 64 will work, but a drive shaft will be spendy. Do you have pics of the other trans? What was it out of?

Thats a 66-69 box, but with missing parts, $100 - $150 tops.

Is the pistol grip the handle or the whole shifter? If it's the whole thing replace it as a unit.

green1 has it.

OldmanRick, I didn't think about the two diffrrent levers for reverse. Is the Hemi box out of a B body, and the other out of an A body? Can you get some pics to help us see what your seeing?

The out put shaft should be the same size on both 4spds. It is a 4spd and not a later model OD? As far as reverse, your eather in or out, is there some binding in the trans(can you get it in by hand)? The linkage is the same even the OD stuff will work.

Just get one from a mid 70s C or B body, and graft in a 2nd brake light switch for the clutch.