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Why not run OBDII out of the gate?

I'm going through a similar situation, and the dual sync is plug and play with the Holley Terminaor X Max with CNP ignition I'm running this time. I assumed the signal it puts out via Hall Effect Sensors could be used instead of the factory crank position sensor. I didn't look at the wiring...

You could also, forget about the flex plate, and use a dual synch distributor to trigger your EFI.

I'm using the American Powertrain kit in my E-Body with a 440 & Passon 5-speed. It works great, wasn't hard to install and has an amazing pedal feel. It's not cheap, but it is well matched as far as pedal effort goes.

Remember that while you are working on aligning the center-line of the crankshaft to the centerline of the transmission by using dowels, you must also insure the bell-housing sits squarely on the back of the block. This is to verify the transmission centerline sits both square and plumb in...

My buddy had the after market 4 speed (4th gear)OD gear set swap using the factory case. It worked well for him. I forget the final ratio, but like Kern Dog said, the gear vendors OD ratio just didn't quite cut it for the $.

I cut the head off a Grade 8 bolt to make a longer guide stud, and didn't use their blue anodized aluminum part. The stud goes into the front transmission bearing retainer. My kit was for an 18 spline Hemi 4 speed, and there were enough spacers to get the correct clearance. Their kit works...

Not an issue at all running 2 inch TTI's on an RB.

I just used the stock rubber boot and ran the hydraulic lines through the opening in the rubber boot. My set-up does not use the fork at all. I also removed the fulcrum that bolts inside the bellhousing.

The hydraulic throw out bearing I got from from American Powertrain has 1/2" or .500" of travel when fully depressed. McLeod stated that's the maximum travel when I asked them about how much travel their 3-finger Street Twin clutch needed to full disengage. There is .130" of freeplay included...

Same thing happened to me leaving me stranded at the end of a car show. It worked great for years then for some reason it slipped off one side of the throw out fork fingers. All the parts still looked good. I upgraded to a hydraulic thow out bearing kit from American Powertrain, and have been...

Wow, we are still a few executive orders away from that intrusive of government inspection of our private property, but why can't you cut the tunnel and re-weld what you need in there, all while making it look like the factory did it? How would they know to look under your carpet ?

I'm sure it will be fine. When you have time later, maybe put some in there. It will help reduce wear and subsequent sloppiness down the road.

Your bushing is correctly installed in your picture. The thin washer goes under the clip. Use a small amount of synthetic disc brake grease on both the inside and outside of the bushing, on the end of the shift rod that slides into the bushing and on the contact side of the thin washer. The clip...

Check for broken motor mounts. Open your hood, put your foot on the brakes firmly, put the car in gear and begin to carefully let the clutch out. Look to see if the driver's side of the engine is lifting up excessively. Put the transmission in reverse, let clutch out carefully and see if the...

I bought and installed one on my E-Body. I love it because it stabilized my clutch pedal feel during easy and hard use of the throttle. I added a longer piece of hose that allowed me to move the reservoir farther away from the it's master cylinder, but only as a preference. I had to drill one...

There's the obvious big block small block thing, using the correct transmission opening size unit and then verifying that the face of the bellhousing that the transmission bolts to is centered with the crank centerline and also square with the crank centerline. Of course, if you intend on high...

What did the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel look like when you had it apart. I've had my share of clutch chatter problems over the years. It is frustrating. A broken drivers side motor mount will induce chatter, but I read you have a torque strap installed. Can you tighten that so...

The wideband will be key to getting dialed in. It is an absolutely invaluable too. Getting your float levels right is critical too. Your break in will be on the center carb anyway, so bumping the stock jet size up a few sizes may get you up and running without worrying about running too lean for...

1/2 an inch from zero freeplay, between the clutch fork and the pressure plate fingers, at the throw out bearing. Per McLeod tech line.

I believe the issue with mine was a partial fracture at the pivot point on one of the fingers that allowed it to distort when pressed, but I'm not sure it was visible without a disassembly and inspection. Once you "bluprint", rebuild and relubricate your z-bar assembly, you should be ok. I...

I started lubricating the Z-bar bushing and basically anything else that spins moves or slides with synthetic disc brake grease, because it won't attack plastic or rubber and its one of the most complete greases with PTFE, Moly and teflon mixed into it's additive package. Amazing anti washout...

No worries. Get the car up in the air on both ends, grab a long thick screw driver or awl type prybar, some gloves and a flashlight. Leave the transmission in gear and use the prybar to try and move the u-joints back and forth while looking closely at them for any sign of sloppiness. Also, see...

I always start my process of elimination with the first step, and don't move on to the next step until I've determined the answer to my first step. So, was that a yes, it continues or no it stops?

This last post was a bit hard to follow, but by pushing in the clutch and letting the engine speed idle down, you are taking the engine, flywheel and pressure plate out of the equation temporarily. If the vibration remains, it indicates the issue is in the transmission, driveline or rear end.

Try pushing in the clutch and putting it in neutral at that speed. Does anything change? Once the motor has been brought up to temperature for 20 minutes, cooled down and rechecked for proper torque on everything accessible, I drive the car like I use it, hard, and I only rev it hard once it is...

Try pushing in the clutch and putting it in neutral at that speed. Does anything change? Once the motor has been brought up to temperature for 20 minutes, cooled down and rechecked for proper torque on everything accessible, I drive the car like I use it, hard, and I only rev it hard once it...

Chatter is the big issue with puck clutches. I tried a few back in the day, and they were great either fully disengaged or engaged. In between those two conditions, not good at all on the street. If the one you are looking at has a Marcel spring, you may get away with it.

There is a small tool available to remove and replace them without disassembling the trans. You just have to pull the driveshaft. I think I paid $135 for mine. It comes with adapers to do GM & Ford bushings too. The real issue for these bushings and driveshaft yokes is that the clearance on...

Nice. Are all your synchro's ok? Might be a good time to swap them out if they are worn.