Search results for query: *

Ok thanks for the info guys. If I take the intake off I'll look further into blocking the heat crossover. Just want to get it running without tinkering further if possible lol.

What did you end up going with? I just bought the Edelbrock thick gasket https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9266 and will be getting it running hopefully tonight. I also am going to use header wrap around my fuel line above the intake manifold leading up to the carb. We'll see how it goes...

I read on the Hughes engine test the performer rpm (not performer) flows slightly less than the LD4B but makes more power because of runner design. I like the old school look of the LD though. I'm torn between selling it toward wheels or putting it on lol. Hot rodding on a budget sucks but...

Ok yeah I'd be potentially interested.

Yeah. All 4 are bent. No idea how. Maybe I didn't torque them right at some point? Who knows?

A pair as in two or a pair as in four? Yeah I'm sure 99% of used rallyes available are perfectly round, but after dealing with bent ones I'm just weary. I will let you know though.

I'm planning on going new just because I don't want another bent set LOL

14x6 sbp. These are powdercoated black which I plan to do again. But they're bent enough to where I don't like driving it at 70 mph.

Yeah my dad will try to pick up that manifold tomorrow. Not sure what we'll do or if my dad wants it or if I will try trading it toward some rallye wheels. Just found out mine are bent so that throws a wrench in my plans. Always something!

I've seen some sell for $250-300. Is this typical? I have a Performer intake and was considering going a different route.

I'm curious on this too. I found this one on CL Mopar and it is the 283613 casting number.

Oh wow. I'll just be going 3.55s. Haven't decided if I will do that in the 7.25 and hope for the best (I don't race it at the track anymore, it's only a 318 and a low 15 second car) or if I want to do the 8.75 and go all out.

Ok that is good to know. Would it be better to wait until I buy the manifolds so I could let you know which pipes I would need? You did the 340 HP driver side and then the 360 magnum passenger side, right? I'm planning to do gears first (2.76 in car now) before I work back to the engine but I'm...

Gotcha. What would it cost to buy the things necessary to put on those manifolds?

Sorry, I'm just seeing this as I look back through the thread. Is that so the exhaust doesn't have to be piecemealed together when the manifolds are put in place?

I'll check out my manual when I get a chance, thanks guys! I've only used it once but with me driving the car again it looks like it'll get used.

Yeah I'd be interested in going a different route for an air cleaner. Although it dyno'd more with that air cleaner than even an open carb. But the hood was off, wasn't sitting in traffic, etc..

Thanks for this! I will verify that it'll fit with my 1405 carb and performer intake!

I'll look at the inside of my cap. I'm not sure how to pull off the line to the canister. The clip isn't adjustable or flexible. I've never seen a clip like it. I do not think these two issues are interrelated. Just brought them up at the same time. Sorry. I have not plugged the heat crossover...

Sounds good, thanks for the help! Wish you hadn't gotten out of the manifold business LOL. I keep having to do other crap before I can pull the trigger on them though.

Maybe it is sucking air when I open it? But should it even do that? This is that canister I was talking about. None of the ports are hooked up except for the one that says fuel tank. And the retainer is on there, no idea how to get it off. From left to right it says, Carb, PCV, tank, then carb...

72 Scamp, 318 bored .030, 470 lift cam, eddy 4 bbl intake and carb. Car bogs at WOT sometimes when it's hot (like 90* outside) but once cool outside (like 70*), runs fine. Made for a rough loss to a Monte Carlo at the cruise night LOL. I'm going to run a 1/2 wood carb spacer to help as I think...