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Definitely YES, it is much easier on your headers and any other pipe, it also improves your front suspension stability and many more handling improvements. Go with A

I ran the original 7.25 for about 5 years before changing.

My 76 Dart Sport has an 8.25 with minimum slip, with 3.55 gears and my 360 has about 350 HP...fun light car.

in other words don't bother!!

Seems to me that mine is a 1 1/8'' it sure stopped the constant bottoming out I had.

Personally I would go ''tubular A arms'' unless you are looking for stock. All you can do is look at the used parts in the ''junk yards'' but this is a very common problem with the small ball joints.

As for the shock plates, the 7 1/4 ones can work, all you have to do is drill your holes on the plate about another 1/4'' or so, in other words make them oblong. Drill towards the outside of the plate. That is the only difference between plates. As for the drive shaft, makes a difference on...

1-1/8 front is a very good choice and I imagine 7/8 is fine for the rear from what I heard. I have been told by others when I was shopping for my front sway bar to never even look at the hollow ones but then I was keeping my /six bars which are tiny. The solid 1 1/8 front held up the car fine...

I can get a 8 1/4 rear end from a 1977 Cordoba but will it fit my 76 Dart Sport or be too wide? Will I have to just move the spring perches or is there something else?

Thanks for all the info guys, that helps a lot.

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Gotcha!!!

I have heard quite a few things about poly bushings...some find them too noisy, harsh handling and other not too nice statements. I have a 76 Dodge Dart Sport, A body in other words...what are your comments? Is this an idea I should dismiss or go for it?

Your best bet just might be to get your local spring shop build you a custom set, that is what I did, or scrounge the local scrap yards.

That is the problem I have with one of my axles. Would you happen to have a part number?

I have heard of green bearings for 8 3/4 rears but are they available for 8 1/4 rears too???

Where do I find such a product. Would this help the steering and handling? 76 Dodge Dart Sport, front discs rear drums, 360 V8.

Alain isn't there a spring place your way? If so they could custom build a set for you and if not I would go with a set of HD OEM springs(5 plies rather than 4) but from a place where you can specify the arc you want as in the choice of 1'' over stock 2''over stock...I have seen such a place...

Once you get everything straightened out and your car is finished and driveable but before you put the carpets in, I suggest you WELD IN some sub frame connectors (make sure you get these welded to each end and about every 4-6 inches to the floor too). This will help keep everything straight and...

My Dart Sport was originally a /6 but now has a 360...same block as 318. I have not changed the torsion bars and at first my headers would hit the ground (bumps). Then I added a big sway bar to the front end and my headers have dragged only once since. Changing torsion bars is not really...

Like 'jbc426' said do not use Moog, they are no longer the best. They are made in China, just like a lot of US companies, they cost less to the companies but usually not to public and now not only they don't last but they are no good at all.

On my 76 Dart Sport, the 4 ball joints are fairly new, the rest of the bushings would need upgrading so where do I start? What should I do first? Wish I could get rid of the torsion bars but that is an expensive proposition. J-G

Where should I look for springs for my 76 Dart Sport 360? Any help appreciated...THANKS.

Just to let you know, There are solid sway bars and tubular sway bars, my vote is for solid.

Too bad you refer to the car as a Dart when it is actually a Dart Sport...and a 1976 to boot, this is the last year the Dart Sport was built, it is the same as mine, except for a few details which cost a lot of money. Oh by the way I am the original owner of my car. Nice build, Keep it up. If...

I imagine that is going to be a coil suspension and finally get rid of those darntorsion bars which are always in the way. Am I right? Jean-Guy

If you do this move you have to change the drive shaft right?

Somewhere along the line that vent bolt got changed to a regular bolt (probably when the rear end got changed) and that caused no ventilation, so I just removed the bolt and zip tied the brake with it partly covering the hole and now there are no more leaks. -"THANKS to grassy, rustyratrod and...

I wonder if mine is the same...probably not that lucky.

That screw, I believe holds the brake block for the rear wheels.