FRONT suspension

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leblanc

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On my 76 Dart Sport, the 4 ball joints are fairly new, the rest of the bushings would need upgrading so where do I start? What should I do first? Wish I could get rid of the torsion bars but that is an expensive proposition.
J-G
 
Go to PST's website, they have full kits for performance rebuild or stock rebuild so you don't have to part things together. They give members here 10% discount when you spend over 200. Unless you want to go coil-overs which if that's the case open up that checkbook.
 
Not sure why your desire to elimate the T bars - its a good setup once set up properly. I start with getting the correct spring rate using larger t bars. From there I make a delrin lower control arm bushing, and use a bushingless strut rod assembly. This creates a solid platform for the front suspension. The lower arm/ball joint carries 70% of the load. I prefer Bilstein shocks as they have good valving and are very durable with steel bodies. I make parts for SPC upper control arms so they bolt in, align super easy and allow the widest range of adjustment on the market. I sell Hellwig sway bars too, which fit excellent and are economically priced. Top it off with one of my Borgeson steering box kits and you have modern steering on a relative budget.
 
Not sure why your desire to elimate the T bars - its a good setup once set up properly. I start with getting the correct spring rate using larger t bars. From there I make a delrin lower control arm bushing, and use a bushingless strut rod assembly. This creates a solid platform for the front suspension. The lower arm/ball joint carries 70% of the load. I prefer Bilstein shocks as they have good valving and are very durable with steel bodies. I make parts for SPC upper control arms so they bolt in, align super easy and allow the widest range of adjustment on the market. I sell Hellwig sway bars too, which fit excellent and are economically priced. Top it off with one of my Borgeson steering box kits and you have modern steering on a relative budget.

I'm interested in your Borgeson steering box....could you PM me some information? Jeff
 
Personally I think you have a road to hoe before you worry about a Borgenson box. The handling personality of these cars is changed DRAMATICALLY by doing a few simple things

1....ALL of the front end moving parts MUST be brought up to "factory new tight" standards. This means good quality ball joints, all rubber bushings, tie rod ends, and the pitman and idler arm

3...use good radial tires. Even good 14's are a huge improvement over what we had in the 70s

4...Get it aligned to "modern tire" standards. This has been discussed here MANY times

5...Get better / heavier performance torsion bars. I'd say "in today's world" even the heaviest bars Ma originally made are barely adequate

6...Run a front anti--sway bar, either factory, or aftermarket. Hochkis and others make them

My own case is an excellent example. My 67 started out no sway bar, stock suspension, tiny brakes, "floppy" tires. You'd wiggle the wheel and the front fenders acted like they were water skiing. After the above additions, "horsing" it around a corner results in NO fender dip, and it goes where you point it.

THEN see if you absolutely "must" have a faster steering box.

FORGET getting rid of the T bars. Unless you are doing some wild engine swap, it is competely un-needed.
 
Mopar suspensions when modified are excellent and ride well for what they are. In STOCK form, Mopar suspension is pretty bad putting it nicely. I'm a mopar guy through and through, but own a shop that rebuilds and modernizes suspensions on all types of muscle cars daily, so I'm speaking from experience. My opinion is stock flat out sucks and the fact that today's rubber parts are even worse doesnt make matters better. For guys that have their act together, the Borg box feels modern and even makes the car feels like it tracks better because the internals are much tighter than OE boxes. Having sold a couple hundred of these and installed about a dozen in the shop, I'm speaking from experience. The fact of the matter is we need to modify our suspensions to be even close to regular modern cars. When you go all the way, a good by today's standards handling car is possible. My Dart runs 1:08 on street Michelins at Lime Rock. A C6 ZO6 runs 1:05 for comparison.
 

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Mopar suspensions when modified are excellent.

That might be true, but what I'm saying is he has "a ways to go" before worrying about a quick ratio box. These systems can be improved by factors of 40X from "old worn stock" simply by getting them "up to snuff" and using bigger T bars, sway bar, shocks and tires.
 
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