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They will probably be fun to install with all those springs connected.

Would it be accurate to say that whatever the malfunction in the calipers was, it hindered the air from bleeding out of them?

Only 18 lbs-ft. Doesn't seem all that drastic. I don't know the actual. Bad wrench? Cheap bolt?:dontknow:

Put the other wheels back on if you still have them. Test the car for drivability. If all is well with the drive train and the brakes function properly, it is time to put the other wheels back on. Start with just the front and see what happens. If all is well, time to take a close look at the...

Oh yea, looks that way. Also minus stainless lines and slotted rotors.

I think DionR has hit it on the head. Looks like new $1400.

No one mentioned this and probably doesn't need to be, but when you bleed lines you need to keep the master full of fluid. You can't just bleed everything, then go back and fill it back up and call it done. I think you may know this already, but it's all I got. The rest is baffling.

This is a touch off topic, but here is the solution I used for 11" drums that bound up when torqued. The Chinese measure in metric, and we use inches. I fear they round off the conversions and then nothing works. This is the thread in B-bodies only...

That part might be wrong. I suppose it could have been re-threaded during a re-build. Could even be metric. Parts are a pain.

Lots of other stuff could be happening. How far down does the pedal go when car is still and idling? To the floor? Maybe the rears could use a little tightening. Check the flexible lines, two in front, one in rear. When you have the benefit of the booster you may be puffing up the hoses like a...

I think you need to measure. What they should be and what someone may have put underneath could be two different things.

If you waited until the brake light came on before you changed the discs, you may only be getting pressure to the rear. This is controlled by the prop valve.

You most likely have 9X2, or 10X2.5. Front would be 9X2.5, or 10X2.5 if memory serves me. I suppose you could have 11inch drums but it seems unlikely. Like we all said, measure the drum.

Stop worrying about the shoes. Figure out what the drum measures on the inside, and the depth of the wear pattern. Just measure it with a little wood ruler or something. You will then know the proper shoe to use. Measuring the shoe seems weird, and you are coming up with wrong numbers that are...

Do you know what the width of the friction surface on the new drums will be? Unless someone drilled those drums they must be BBP to fit on those axels. If you land up with new drums that are the same as the old ones you will still have a problem.

I'm in the middle of a mix 'n' match too. I'm gonna get stuck buying 11X2 1/2" drums for '68 b-body rear. More money than I wanted to dish out. I still don't know what you did, but it looks like you will need larger drums. Are they 10" or 11". I'm guessing you can fit 2.5" shoes. If...

I don't know what you did, but that is wrong. Measure the shoe width.

Some times the flexible lines going to the calipers get old, and when you press the brake pedal instead of transferring the pressure the hose will expand like a balloon.

Yup, you need one, or the system will opperate out of proportion. Try driving without one. You will be first in line to get one.

I see on your web page that you may want to go back to smaller drums. Let me know if you positively identify what housing and backing plates you have. I may be up to a swap,if your diff is an 8 3/4.

If is equipted with eleven inch drums I guess that is fine. Maybe wrong drums like off a b-body. If the drums have a readable part number try to figure out what they belong on.

Repairing the leak and bleeding the system should restore brake opperation, but the parking brake is a different issue.

Take a deep well socket the same diameter as the outer bearing and slip it over the spindle. Use the palm of your hand to push on the socket thus holding the bearing in tightly. Does the rotor feel tight? Does it spin o.k.?

Before you cut the new drums, try the old ones. If they fit you might very well have to turn the new ones. Tension on the e-brake cable might affect the rears, but still doesn't solve the front problems.