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If it's a stick it doesn't even need to be running. Just have someone push in the clutch and you can see it move.

Maybe something fell into the carb.

Put the old air filter in and see what happens.

If you pull the valve cover you may find the noise is a dropped valve.

Pull the plugs and see if a piston hit one. Also it will be a lot easier to turn it over without plugs. If it turns over you can put some oil in it. If it is leaking spinning it may show you where.

Not realistic. Linkage too difficult.

I bet with a little patience you could pull this off yourself. Tons of people on here could help, just get the book.

Here's a guess...bypass tube. Tube for AIR. I would look up stuff to find best way to bypass entire system, if that is what it is.

I don't know either. In slant forum. Was at first thinking it was exhaust manifold bolt hole. Really need pic.

Take the cap off and look for any moisture or carbon tracking. If the points are even a little dirty or have some oil on them the engine will act like you describe.

A properly built engine with 200 miles should not have any timing chain or other mechanical issues. You may just need fresh fuel. Spark is one thing, but a good spark is another. I would begin to look for damaged, worn, aged, disconnected, etc., vacuum hoses as the next thing.

This is important. How well did it run when you put it up for the season, and did anyone mess with it while it was garaged? there is more info needed but start there.

In the mid '70s I pulled a pea and lima bean combine for Aunt Nellie's Foods and Oconomowoc Canning Co. It used a slanty. They ran for hours on end flawlessly.

I think they make lower hoses just good enough to last the warranty period. Then they start to get old and soft and begin to deteriorate and at that stage I guess we just buy new ones.

I think worrying about a car running at 220 is sort of panicking. I drove mine up out of the river valley yesterday it got to about 230 so I dropped a gear, the pump and fan spun a little faster and it cooled to 225 right away. The coolant in my car right now is at 105 and I haven't even started...

I was just kind of joking about Chernobyl. However that system was far better than the scoop salt water out of the ocean and dump it on the spent fuel rod method used at Fukushima, the real disaster which is yet to be. Oh, by the way Phreakish, nice read. Thanks.

Through a series of strange happenings with egr, egr cooler, my turbo instantly pumped my cooling system beyond its capabilities and exploded my upper hose. At 80ph it didn't take long for all the bells and whistles to go off. A little duct tape and a few gallons of water and I was home. The...

The only idiot light info I actually remember was small block chevy. Light came on at 237 if all was functioning properly. My truck will go to close to 250 before it goes into shut down mode.

68 formula you're exactly right. I haven't touched the cooling system on my Dart for years. It has a/c also and will idle out in the sun forever with no issues. I am sort of waiting for it to fail, freeze plug or something, to give me an excuse to pull the engine since it uses a little oil and...

I don't know about this, but I am beginning to get a feel for the malfunction at Chernobyl. Water didn't stay in the cooling towers long enough or something.

I knew all those equations they forced on us were useless. I don't think I have ever seen a thermostat just pop open.

Except for a thermostat stuck closed they overheat for pretty much all the same reasons with or without a t-stat.

No, it can have a fluid flow problem at any speed or temperature, unless there is no fluid.

The trick here is to get the cooling system to opperate well enough that it tries to close the thermostat. I doubt the length of time coolant stays in the radiator will matter much, as the longer it cools in the radiator, the hotter it gets in the engine. Heat transfer and fluid flow equations...

Sorry bad choice of words. I meant are they elongated so the wheel isn't staying tight.

Check the shoe lining. Maybe bleeding brought it back in service. Make sure lug holes are not rounded, nuts torqued right. Is backing plate bent somehow from jacking the car?

Jack up the wheel and give it a spin. Maybe you can find the culprit that way. This could be a few things.

I would check the torque on the head bolts just to see if there was a mistake there. If they are ok and you disassemble it, then you can look for a bad gasket and try to figure out what wen wrong with it. Maybe head needs milling or is warped a bit. Low mileage gaskets don't tend to go bad all...

Crack in the head too.

When it wears a little more it will start to pump out of the dipstick tube. I just put a hose on it and catch it in a milk jug. Then pour it back in. After a while the compression went to nothing and that was it. No go no mo'.