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The set screw size is 3/8-16 and the orifice size is 1/8”.

I usually tap that opening and put in a drilled Allen set screw that way I can easily change the orifice size by using another drill set screw. I can post the set screw size later once I get out to the shop.

Try a metric allen wrench. Or possibly an easy out. Or a torx screw driver. Maybe you can get lucky with one of those.

Start by using a gasket and a thin coat of gas maker next time.

The width of the brake shoe has no effect whatsoever on the overall width of the reared. The axle flange determines the overall width.

Richmond made the gears so no 10,000 day date code.

Just tap it just deep enough so that the set screw is below the pan rail. I would also find the set screws before you tap it.

Just pack the tap with grease and tap it slowly. There is no drilling required. The set screw and tap size is 3/8-16 and I start off with an 1/8” orifice. The other thing that you can do is use a shop vac while tapping the hole.

I always thread that hole and put a set screw with a orifice in it. Set screws are cheap so if you need to change something it’s a lot easier this way..

We ran Shangra-La Speedway in Owego NY and Spencer Speedway in Williamson NY weekly. We also ran In special events at Pocono Speedway on the 3/4 mile inner track and Oswego Speedway in Oswego NY. These were all asphalt tracks. My only dirt track experience was in a Dwarf Car once at Brewerton...

And we usually paid $50 bucks for them. LOL! Back in the day a friend of mine mentioned a truck in the junkyard having a 8-3/4 but it wasn’t a suregrip so he passed on it. I checked it out and it was a 3.55 and the best thing was that the bed was missing so I didn’t need to crawl under it to...

Back in the mid 80’s I ran a Chevy circle track car with a stock 10” rear and we never broke a C-clip but we did break a right side axle once. After that happened we would replace the right side axel halfway through the season. The real problem is twisting an axle since there’s nothing to hold...

You need to go back and check the center section. It might have a 3.55 in it or if your really lucky it might have a suregrip in it.

If it’s a Posi it will turn but it will turn into a GM product.

Keep in mind if you decide to change the output shaft and the tailshaft housing you can use one from a small block 727.

You’re holding the shim in your hand per your last picture.

Why don’t you just use the brake drum or wheel to check it?

The one thing that everyone is forgetting is that it’s the overdrive transmission that will be the weak link. With that clutch tamer clutch that rear end might not see that much shock and it could hold up. If you think that an upgrade to a non overdrive transmission and a more aggressive clutch...

Yes, it can be switched. I did almost the same thing when I changed my ball & trunion style 64 transmission to the later slip yoke design.

Are you putting the converters on to the transmission input shaft all the way. If you had to use the bolts to pull the transmission the last 3/4” or so that’s your issue. The other issue you would see if the converter isn’t seated all the way is that you had trouble spinning the converter when...

I’d look for a new case. Check your local transmission repair shops. They might have a case in their junk pile.

I just took mine to the local transmission shop and they did mine for free.

I agree, neither my M-code ‘cuda nor my 340S Barracuda, both Hamtramck have the rear end code listed on the fender tag.

I hate to be a Debbie Downer but the transmission in the 63 is push button shift and has the ball & trunion drive shaft joint. You would be farther ahead by using a latter model transmission with the newer input shaft and slip joint yoke. The .060 over 361 pistons will be expensive since they...

I have one axle that I can measure. It was a C-body axle that was cut down and resplined. I can measure it tomorrow.

The plug is the same one used on the Max Wedge and Cross Ram Hemi intake manifolds.

Small

Don’t Frankenstein it or overthink it. Use the correct cross member mount and tranny mount for the year of the car. The big block 727 tranny fits the 67 and up A-body floor pan with plenty of clearance.

I was told at one time that the 904 and 727 torque tubes were different. I actually pulled a 727 torque tube years ago from a 340 Demon column shift and it’s in my stash of parts along with the transmission.

I think that I think that the yoke is supported by the outer bearing, outer race and then the case itself. I’d put the pinion nut back on but not tighten it all the way up. I’d leave it loose enough so that the end of the shaft isn’t exposed. That way the threads don’t get ruined and the...