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The year or make doesn't really matter does it? The process the OP requested info on is the same regardless of the model.

Here is a perfect link for what you need to do. 1967 Plymouth Barracuda Dashpanel Restoration - Mopar Muscle Magazine Someone needs to put a sticky on this.

The plastic lenses can be separated from the bezel by heating up the edges of the previously melted tab while putting pressure on the lens from the back side. Some lenses just fall out when you separate the back. Take the lenses and clean them with warm soapy water. Using Mothers polish...

Sand a valley between sides on the crack, Dremel tool works great, then use an epoxy designed for plastic to weld/form them together. licking/wetting your fingers, helps you to mold the glue into shape as it sets up. You can also build a dam with cardboard and masking tape. Just be sure to...

It's Chinese crap so I'm sure it fits like Chinese crap does, and no I did not see anything for the glove box, so you'd have to reshape your old one with putty. I learned the hard way about these re-pops out there. I learned that I would rather spend the money to restore an original, than use...

67-69 Barracuda Silver Dash Carrier Panel for 5" - 2-1/16" Gauges | eBay If you want a more modern look. They come in carbon fiber and black as well.

Mopar Instrument Clusters Restored and Rebuilt Had them do two for me and they did a nice job.

All my plastic and vinyl is painted in my car, including the dash, arm rests, kick panels etc. 8 years of weekend driving and not a scratch or a flake. It's all how you prep the plastic, so don't skimp on chemicals for prep before paint.

I have done it to remove white stretch/bend marks on my motocross bike plastic, and get the fade out of my Rhino plastic and it works OK. Probably wont work on that old vinyl though as it's not Poly plastic. You may end up ruining your parts. Vinyl spray paint will do the same and you can...

Pull your old wires (support bars) out of the old foam. If you don't have the support wires left, you can make them simply by using some heavy gauge wire. 9 ga or so. They do not supply them with the seat foam...

Sun visors should match the headliner, or they will stick out like a turd in a punch bowl.

Fat Mat is about the cheapest and it comes on a roll thats 2' wide, so it covers large areas quickly. I used the next step up in their line called Rattle Trap. Ive used it on two cars and it works awesome for noise and some thermal heat reduction. On my A/C car I also used HD thermal barrier...

You would be money and time ahead if you remove/bring one of your interior pieces to the paint shop and have them match it. I learned from experience, that there are many, many shades of white, and that paint codes do not always produce the exact color you desire.

Kill it with Decon and stick him with glue trap. Both work together well, so be prepared to find the corpse. Just had one in my Ford truck. Little bastard was coming in at night somehow then leaving in the morning. I found his nest in my glove box once and above the visor the second time...

IMHO I would reuse the stock one, as you are guaranteed it will fit. I personally have not had good luck with much of the repo stuff. I did two complete nut and bolt restos on A bodies, so I have experience. I had both clusters repaired and re-finshed and it was well worth it. My list of...

Just prep it with sand paper, prime it and paint it. Here's an after shot of mine, that was cracked in 10 places, and another of my wife's wheel (before and after) that was also cracked badly. I just used that 2 part epoxy stuff from eastwood and some sand paper and voila. A little time and...

http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Ssnake-Oyl&Category_Code=RS You may want to look into these guys.

Yes there are paint codes for the interior but Ma Mopar was the goddess of clashiness. She didn't care if it was stripes with polka dots so why care if there's 5 shades of blue in your car. The nebulous paint codes are in some of the restoration books that I have. If you want it to look...

Most folks match the paint color to the vinyl that way it's not looking like fido's ***. I went as far as to get samples of the vinyl from Legendary prior to painting anything. the rear finish panels and arm rests were painted to match the legendary vinyl in this pic. I know hindsight is...

Everything that is plastic including dash pad and kick panels is in automotive paint and holds up awesome. Same paint that is on the steel is on the plastic. You don't necessarily have to use something special to get the desired result and durability you expect. It's about mixing the right...

I agree.....the original B5 and B7 just clashed like polka dots and plaid. This is my wife's car and she loves the change. :D

Here you go. The original interior color was white with B5 trim on doors, S-wheel and dash. Same interior color but we changed the door trim, steering wheel and dash to B7 to match the body.

Couple of sheet metal screws should do it. They should be located about 1" in on each side and be biased towards the far edge of the return. Return being that 1" flap at the bottom edge of the seat back. Look for the holes in the seat frame.

X2 on 3m spray. AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS. Weldwood brush on adhesive is perfect for the job. Coat both the back of the vinyl and rough up the ABS with some 120 grit before coating that as well. let them dry till they are tacky then install. If you do it right it will never release.

Here's a couple pictures of the back seat area of a 69 barracuda vert. Should be close to what you have or at least show you where the holes go for the bolts. Note the beefy support plates at the back side of the middle two bolt holes.

I wish we had hot sun......all we get is rain for the last 40 days. I'm putting pontoons on my barracuda as we speak.....

Heat gun on the back side will help it mold to the pans. Just be careful not to hold it on there to long or hit the front side as the carpet can melt. Also contact cement in the areas with deep contours will help. Coat back side and floor and allow it to tack up before you lay it down...

Here's a 69 cluster removed from the car. No wires as they plug in and stay with the harness.

Use an under dash box. You can paint them to match the dash and they look sano.

Looks good. The reason mine is up past the seat is so if the door became locked/smashed shut I can get to the bottle still. I tested it in a few positions with the door closed and me in the seat with my belt on. You may want to consider that.