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The pics didn't really come out. It's like there's no way to get a phone or camera in there to get a good picture. I'll try to describe it as best I can, but all I did was unbolt the rear brake line from the stock proportioning valve, screw it into the adjustable valve and ran a new loop of...

I run a wilwood adjustable valve plumbed after the stock proportioning valve ( so the warning light still works. I'm running stock manual disc / drum master cyl with an exploder disc rear end. Took about 30 min to "tune" the rear with the adjustable valve ( and I was taking my time ) You can...

Is the brake pedal lever hitting the steering column? or is the pivot bolt got some rust making it sticky?

Yep, Now that the Duster has the 360 in it, it needs some help. I'm really talking about 5-6 hard stops on a trip to work on the weekend. The corporate plaza has some nice twisty roads and no cars to speak of on a Saturday morning :) I'll most likely do the 11.75 rotor upgrade. It doesn't...

I have stock manual disks in front, explorer rear disks and will say that although they will lock up the 245's in the front, they get blue from even the slightest spirited driving and I'm guessing will suffer a nuclear meltdown during an autocross. Repeatable stopping power is needed and I...

I had a similar issue, turns out the rear brake shoes weren't adjusted tight enough. Bled the brakes 20+ times, never fixed it. I ended up swapping to discs in the rear instead of replacing all of the adjusting hardware. What I did to verify this was to clamp the rear rubber line with vice grips...

Yeah, its disc/disc now. Pedal is firm and the brakes stop just fine but don't "feel" right. Maybe I haven't driven it enough to get used to it or maybe I'm a little paranoid. When it comes to brakes, one almost can't be too paranoid. I did confirm that the rears aren't dragging before I drove...

That wouldn't reduce pressure, just flow in both directions. I guess his would allow the rear brakes to come in a little later than with the larger holes and if the bias was just a tad off, this would work. From what I've been reading a proportioning valve remains open until a set pressure has...

I actually did that before I swapped to the explorer disc axle but it's no longer drum in the rear. I was looking into how to "adjust" a factory proportioning valve. I suppose one could play with spring rates in the valve, but having to take it apart and bleed the brakes every time, it's not...

ah, ok that makes sense. Guess I'll just need an adjustable valve to get the feel where I like it. Thanks

So I did the 8.8 explorer rear w / discs swap a few months ago and I'm just to the point of driving it and have noticed that ( although stops ok ) seems biased to the rear. Feels like stopping a fwd car with the e brake a little. Car is a 73 Duster that had manual disc/drum setup. Here is...

Some rumors about the cars say that some had anti-lock brakes. This would confirm the rumor and explain what they are. The odd thing is that I haven't been able to find anything like it on the web. Trailbeast, Can you elaborate on who used to make those? "Passive anti-lock brake" doesn't come...

I have to say thanks guys. This little thing has been crawling around the back of my mind for the last few weeks. I've been around cars for a long time but have never seen anything like this...well at least not on brake lines. It appears to be similar to a clutch fluid damper system. Don't...

lol, It's a car and it is Mopar powered. It's the consulier that my brother in law bought, mine doesn't have those things. Here is part of the pic zoomed in, t's connected via T off the main line. Does kinda look like a boat :D Maybe a brake damper valve???

ok guys I've got something that's stumped me. Have a look at the pic. Can anyone tell me what in the world those gold things are hanging off the lines where they go into the master cyl???? They are aluminum, anodized gold, have no wires to them, and have a bleeder valve at the top.

1. RockAuto has the best prices I've seen. ( I'm cheap ) ;) 2. Semi-metallic ( less brake dust than organic and lasts longer ) 3. Steel piston ( phenolic have a habit of doing goofy stuff, at least on my ranger )

Looking for the bushings that go between the brake pedal shaft and the brake pedal for a 73 Duster automatic trans. Yearone says:part number FD1770 works for 1965-1974 brake pedals for all models except a-bodies... and Brewers site says: CPB770: Brake pedal (and some clutch pedal) white...

I thought that glycol based brake fluid absorbs water and that's why it rusts things...a number of online sites say that silicone based fluid does not absorb water, but there is some conflicting info out there ...confused...

I have to agree with the manual disc crowd. I've had a power disc 75 Duster, 73 manual disc Duster and have driven an all drum 72 Duster... of the 3, the manual disc one has the best "feel" IMHO and it will lock up the 245/40/17 tires on the front if need be... that's if the rears don't lock up...

X2 and you are supposed to "bend" the little tabs on the pad to fit TIGHT where they sit on the caliper or they will rattle/knock like crazy... I'm guessing that the pad is the issue, but between the rubber band and adjusting the pad you should be good.

I believe brewers performance has them... http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?id=41

I've never worked on a 67 but.... I'm confused, the axle shafts have to be removed to get the rear cyls off? and don't the axles have clips that hold them in the carrier?

Check the rear adjusters. Sounds like one is working ( pass side ) and one isn't. I had a squishy pedal problem for what seemed to be forever and getting worse with each day and the driver rear would lock first. After bleeding the brakes about 20 times, replacing the master...yadda yadda yadda...

Sorry I can't add anything to the "how to" portion of this thread but I'll chime in on preference and feel. I'm running stock manual disk brakes on my 73, and like everyone else, firm pedal but not hard, ( nice feel IMHO ), can still lock them up if I try. Very predictable. I've always felt that...

See pic for correct installation and usage. :lol: I use them to shot the neighborhood cat that crawls up next to me when I'm under the car. My passenger front caliper used to "clunk" over bumps when not on the brakes until I saw that post explaining what that this is for...

There is a possibility that it did "fix" itself. If the piston inside the proportioning valve was stuck with crud from the old fluid, it might have freed up from the new fluid flowing past....

Sorry for not getting back to you but it looks like the other guys are getting you to a solution. Just to clarify the internal leak thing for future readers - the behavior of the pedal will be something like it will slowly go all of the way to the floor or it may stop and get firm again if the...

Still no luck finding the reset procedure, but I think that it should recenter if the brakes are bled in the correct order PR,DR,PF,DF unless it's stuck. Maybe the reman master is the problem...had one right out of the box that would "leak down" (internal leak), would feel kinda spongy and if...

From what I remember the warning light can be lit from 2 places. 1. The switch on the parking brake lever. 2. The wire running to the proportioning valve. From what you describe of the issue, it might be the prop valve. When you push down on the pedal, the valve is trying to move..that's why the...

If it were me... swap sides and call it a day... This topic comes up from time to time, but at the end of the day it's personal preference and/or whether or not you have sway bars that will interfere with the caliper if it's out front...