Search results for query: *

IMHO, the most important step is to match / surface the manifolds after they're bolted together. I was replacing gaskets every few months until I did mine. Was still holding with no leaks years later until I swapped in the v8

...but it was a big enough problem for Chrysler to add this heat shield to newer slant sixes....I think I found it on a late 70's truck

I bolted the manifolds together at the hotbox while they were sitting face down on a level surface then skimmed mating surface of the manifolds as one piece. Never leaked after that, even with 8lbs of boost ;)

x2, Use the holes in the head that point straight up. It'll pull out slanted like it sits in the engine bay. Don't worry, it wont roll once free of the engine mounts. The ears on the k-frame are slotted, so you can loosen the mounts, pull up on the motor a little, then slide the bolt out 1/4"...

I've used the remflex carbon gasket and standard felpro...if the manifold surface isn't true enough for the felpro the remflex may help but only for a short time. Have the mating surfaces milled or sanded or something to get them flat or even the thick gasket will blow out. I did something like...

now that is freaking cool!

Yep, bolt together, then resurface as one unit. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33620

Sounds like a vacuum leak. High idle, no low end power and having to keep it running with the accelerator pump shot says too much air to me. I'd bet you find your issue by the time you get to #3 on 67Dart273's list ;)

Yes the v8 and slant pattern are different. Since the auto's have integrated bells, they aren't interchangeable. You'll need a slant 904, pretty common and should be CHEAP to free even in perfect working order. I had to scrap mine when I went to a manual because I couldn't give it away. Tripped...

x2 Good point Mike, I read the post and didn't think slants were prone to blowing head gaskets unless you're pushing 30lbs of boost into it :D

I ran a 833-OD behind my slant and it's a bit more fun than the auto. The main issue with the manual behind a turbo slant is the clutch. Be prepared to have the flywheel drilled to accept a modern diaphragm clutch. There are some posts over at .org that have details on what some folks did. I...

Don't forget ALL of the places vacuum runs. A/C/heater controls, manifold mating surface, vacuum canister and vacuum advance. Slants are notorious for having hot start issues, engine bay heat soaks the carb after shutdown and boils the fuel out of the carb ( flooding ). This also translates...

Just about anything you do will add HP to the sleepy slant, BUT a turbo with about 8-10 lbs of boost...now you're talking fun... almost everything else is too little gain for the relative expense. As for stock Depending on what you read, 95-110HP is stock, BBD ,HEI and bigger exhaust gave me...

Rocker may have been way loose and it may have gotten bent when it popped off the rocker. Mine were bent a little further down and not so sharp of a bend, but far enough one was hitting the drool tube :D

I had 2 on my engine shortly after getting it on the road. My guess is old gummy motor oil. I swapped some out for junk yard ones. Another one bent before the first oil change, replaced again and it's been fine for 5+ years... I have a full set you can have for shipping if you want from a 71...

I replaced a water pump because of the corrosion had plugged the bypass port and when I cleaned it out, the outlet was super thin ( thus replaced ) and 2 yrs later and it did it again. I live less than 5 miles from work, so do the math on the mileage ( about 3k per year )

yeah, but I can't fix stupid...ok, that MAY have been out of line ;) I've also seen low oil cause crank case ventilation issues :D usually followed by the comment " but, the oil light was only on for about 30 min or so" bwaahahahahaa

Hey, I've got a free slant motor, has been run low on oil a few times, has been overheated twice since I've owned it ( in 6 yrs ), has had the crap reved out of it, has been on 3 hr road trips at 80MPH, has seen 8lbs of boost between every red light every day for 2 yrs...oh, and still has all of...

Holy monstrous main jet batman! :lol: Sounds like you're on the right track though. The only thing I'll suggest is to go in small steps on the PVCR holes. I went WAY too big and ended up having to plug and redrill, not a huge pain, but aggravating. My turbo setup was very mild compared to what...

Bill, Back to the too rich thing. I'll try to keep it simple for troubleshooting ( for my benefit not yours ) :D So the engine sees the following conditions: ( this is my understanding, please correct if need be ) Idle: This is tuned with idle adjustment, sounds like you have this part figured...

That carb setup should put you real close. You'll be AMAZED at what a little boost will do for a slant. Is that a 35CFM or 500CFM carb? and what accelerator pump cam are you using? I started with the stock orange one, but went with the pink one to get rid of the throttle roll on stumble I had...

OK, Here are the pics of the vac advance / boost retard pot on my stock dizzy. The one issue that I had was that the alignment tab for the cap isn't there anymore and the cap can move, albeit just a smidge.

The first issue is with the ammeter. Run it into the +40 range for any length of time and you have a mopar bonfire. The second issue is +35 yr old wiring ( lots of resistance with corrosion ) and it being too small to adequately handle higher amperage. Sure, it may last a few months or even a...

I ran a modded dizzy. Initial advance was 8° BTDC total advance was 18° and I hacked together a vac/retard pot from a turbo volvo, just cut the end off of the arm and welded the stock advance arm onto it. I think I still have it kicking around in the garage. I'll see if I can get some pics up...

I ran the stock hall sensor electric dizzy with the GM HEI module in mine until a couple of months ago ( 4-5 years I think ). Swap was easy, parts are cheap, idle and start were smooth and easy. I do know that the HEI's don't like being under powered, I burnt up 2 modules running them off of the...

There are a few companies that make jetted ones, but the "jet" is tiny. The adjusting screw is an interesting idea, but not sure how that could be accomplished because it's all internal. The issue with going too big is that it will run way too rich right when the power valve opens then and only...

Don't drill the power valve holes until you get it running, I did and ended up having to plug one while running at 6 lbs of boost. at 10 lbs it was fine, but I was worried that 7.25 rear couldn't handle it as 10 lbs smoked the first clutch.

Been a while since I worked on the BBD, but if the mixture screw is all the way OUT, you have a vacuum leak or you need to plug the holes in the butterflies. Solder works well ( bonds well with brass ) Did you rebuild the carb before installing? might want to go through it just to be sure you're...

Been down that same road before, 5K for a used "insert name of some non-descript pos" or 5k for a decent a-body with a /6. 5 years from now, the slant valiant will be worth more than that corolla / accord / civic, and the slant wont cost a fortune to fix or keep running. I have about 6-7k into...

Been there done that....leaking manifolds every 2-3 months until i did this: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33620 It's been fine for 4 years...it held up even under 8 psi of boost.