re-surfacing manifolds

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1930

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I picked up this spare Super Six manifold and plan to use it on my truck. Looks like its been sitting in water and I will have to have the face re-surfaced.

Chances are Im not going to use this exhaust manifold but will instead use the one that is on the truck right now cause its cleaner.

Any of you guys had one of these re-surfaced? Should I be sending the intake/exhaust manifold all bolted together so they can do them both at the same time or should I just send the intake and let them do what they need to do.
 

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something that came to mind. the exhaust pipe at the flange to the exhaust cast iron flange DO use the largest bolt that fits. i think it is 7/16. if you use a bolt that is to small it will NOT stay tight. DO use anti-seize compound on ALL threads on exhaust bolts. do NOT use plated bolts on exhaust systems.
 
Any chance you can point out to me what area you are talking about.

I have read about not using plated bolts but why?
 
I use brass nuts on plated or un-plated bolts it doesn't matter. I can see the argument in favor of un-plated nuts and bolts, but I can't say that I've ever encountered a galling problem that I could say was due to the plating with any certainty.

Since the manifolds are held in place by 'bridging' tabs it is a good idea for the tabs that they contact to be the same thickness. If at all possible I would surface them together.
 
I have had galling issues with plated harware on occasion; these tend to be in turbo racing use where there is a lot of heat around it. I now use grade 8, unplated in that spot and have had good luck in removing them. Occasional anti-seize helps a little while but not much in my experience; after a while it just seems to dissappear. Brass nuts are always a good idea. For general exhaust use for thru bolts, I like to use soft bolts and just break them off. Sometimes I use the smallest, cheapest exhaust clamps for the same reason.
 
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