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I used Chrysler PS2 silver on my grille. I think it turned out awesome.

Can't agree more. The owner, Barry will walk you through all your questions, even help setup your gun. I stripped the Dart, SPI epoxied, body filler over epoxy, used SPI 2k high build, reduced SPI epoxy for a sealer, then paint and their clear. Pics in my build thread. First car I ever painted.

Auveco # 8843 Universal Molding Fastener (Nylon). Qty 50.

See post #14. Google that J number

Right. I remember now. Check out this thread. Guy found some nylon ones that worked. Post#14 68 Dart Belt Molding Clips

[FOR SALE] - Belt Molding here is a FS thread showing a pretty good pic of the clips

You don't have a sample? I'm pretty sure these are close, if I remember right. Mine were attached to the trim when I took off to paint.

Oh you're talking about the chrome that runs up on the door? These? Chrysler & General Purpose Trim Panel Fastener (AV808) | Upholstery Supply USA

If you talking about the molding that runs along the doors quarter and fender, good luck. I had the same issue. My 70 Dart has holes where those clips go, some models had studs some were double sided tape. What I did was grabbed some vinyl top trim clips with threaded studs. The clips slide...

I have moved over, but it only pulls tight side so far.

Got it. It will have to be both sides. Ones tight ones gapped

Thank you. Now the big question. If I loosen the fenders, what's the best way to break the adhesive? I should've done this before I painted it. Dang it. I swear I had the hood aligned before, but guess not.

Everywhere else looks great. I was thinking about moving the fenders, if I do will the hole where the hood pin bolts in move in as well?

I have 70 Dart and my driver's side gap is wide toward the fender extension and my passenger side is too tight (to the point I chipped the paint on the hood and fender) I want to install hood pins, but the drivers is too far away to hit the oval straight under the hood. What's the best way...

Another vote for Phoenix Graphics

I went through the same thing. Went with the 38" 38" or 43" seam for vinyl top

Yes, grab some tack cloths. Also what is helpful is wax and grease remover on a each panel after blocking. Take a light and look for the light to "wave" then you know your panel isn't flat. It will mimic the clear coat.

Search Eastwood paintucation on YouTube. Great video series.

Guide coat is just that a guide to show you the low spots. The high build is used to get the panel flat. Just Google high build and there are great videos that explain. I went to bare metal with 80 on a DA then Epoxy then filler and high build - sand high build sand some more. Than epoxy...

That Eastwood video series is what have me confidence to paint the car myself. He goes into air compressor specs, dryers diy dryers, etc. It really is a great series.

Yes and yes. You can either remove the wheel or turn it.

They should be screws with big washers. My 70 shield was metal, not sure when they switched to plastic. But all of them will need removed and the shield removed.

You'll have to take off the inner splash shield to get to the studs. Behind your front wheel.

@67Dart273 what brand gasket did you use? I've only had luck with Steele Rubber Products. I'd have them pull the windshield and re do it.

If you're talking about the pin strips vs the main stripe, then the manufacturer will have that done already. It will be all one piece of vinyl backing. Agree with above. Do sides first then trunk.

Thanks guys. I'll stick to what I have lol.

I always check my blind spots when I change lanes, but I like to check my mirrors while driving. Especially if someone is coming in hot beside me. The passenger side would be nice to have when backing up in a spot. I like to see the lines on the ground. I'll some more searching about the newer...

So finally got the 70 Dart on the road and it has a remote drivers mirror, but it's pointless. I can't see anything from it. I have a passenger non remote mirror, but haven't installed it yet. Do the sport or rally mirrors offer more of a view? I'm looking for more function over style. Thanks!

Dang. Yea, I removed mine by just removing the splash shield, then popping off the speed nuts that hold the hing onto the stud. Then I reinstalled the hinges and used a socket the same size as the speed nut and tapped them onto the stud with a hammer. Worked fine. There is quite a bit of room...

You don't have to remove th fender, just the splash shield.