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Blaster 2 The plugs are showing it's rich so a new set are in order and going in soon

Orange box and a generic Accel chrome coil has always been my "go to" for a long while. This one got EFI so I needed an ignition that generated a "square wave" tach signal. After 8 years the EFI wouldn't take corrections/adjustments anymore so its was unceremoniously removed. Put the 780 back on...

360/408 10.26:1 compression (actual), MSD 6AL ignition. Using Autolite 3924 plugs @ .035" gap. I've been told to gap at 0.045 as 0.035 is too little and may cause fouling and/or poor performance. Anybody have any research or experience with this?

Keep in mind this all depends on where you tap in for your power source. If you tap in between the alternator and the bulkhead - yes, the bulkhead connections, as well as the ammeter, won't see the draw. But, if on the other side of the harness, between the bulkhead and the battery it will see...

While you can get away with it, as you said, it is not the optimal set up and can bite you. Case in point: in 2012 I was in the Mopar Muscle "Real Street" competition and one of the other contestant's cars gave up (beautiful car!), shut off and wouldn't restart after getting off the freeway. He...

I run 10's with a Pep boys OEM electronic dizzy. MSD's allow easier tunablity, but you can always find out what your curve is and translate it into the MSD later if your wallet is a bit lean on funds.

The factory ammeter wiring is questionable at best. They can barely survive going to the later 65A (square diode cooler back) alternator. In those systems total alternator output is going thru two 1/4" blade wire terminals in the bulkhead connector, twice before finding the battery on the other...

I've tried replacing the cam(twice), first ones wires were too long, second one won't stay locked in place. Yes, I made sure the spring plate inside the swith was installed. (Read: frustrated with fool thing). At this point I'd like to replace the whole thing with new but all I'm seeing offered...