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Good point - I'll put that on my "rainy weekend" to-do list in the near future - couldn't hurt anything I don't think!

Maybe some of that kilmat stuff under the carpet! I do already have the TTI Exhaust system for the car. It sounds pretty decent for a stock slant, but maybe I'll come up with something...

I went ahead and emailed with Doctor Diff and it sounds like I may have been off a couple thou on my pinion depth and may be S.O.L. on fixing it without another gear set since I've put so many miles on them already... Guess I'll just live with it and turn the radio up more unless/until it gets...

So maybe my novice level mechanic skills are NOT at fault... Thanks! LOL

Thanks - these are a Hoosier gear from Doctor Diff... come to think of it, he's probably a guy I should be asking as well!

@cudamark - Thanks - I used a level between the casting bolt surfaces and then a snap gage down to the gear itself, then measured the snap gage with calipers... several steps there where I could be off a little...

So it's been several months, the car is back together, and I've put I'm guessing 1500 miles on the novice rebuilt rear end. It drives very well with no knocks or clunks from the rear. What I do have though is a bit of a ringing sound coming from the rear during cruising at highway speeds. It...

They don't really line up that well after install. They do touch but not as directly as I'd like.

It was nice to come home from a business trip and find these goodies waiting on my front porch!

I bought some here recently. Mancini Racing 7-1/4 Axle Housing U-Bolts

Well I'll be damned... The guys at my old work always just welded super short sections and let it cool a lot to avoid warpage when it was important that something remain straight, but from what I was reading there it seems there is a good chance it might be crooked already... Thanks for the...

Do I get that done at the same place where I can get wires stretched and muffler bearings?

Excellent! I just ordered a bunch o' stuff and will plan to assemble it all on the bench before putting in the car to see if the sticky spots in rotation go away once I don't have chipped gears. I'll certainly avoid opening the SG unit unless proven necessary. Thank you all for the tips - I'm...

Yep - I've got a flux core welder I'll use to tack them in place, but then take the housing to the guy on the other side of town I know who can weld to where things actually stick, unlike mine...

I'm kinda figuring that out! I thought it was a decent deal when I thought it was open diff, but being SG for $50 is way better!

Thanks for the confirmation on it being SG. I thought that was the case but figured someone here would be more sure than I am. And about the new tools things - you're right... I've found I've gotta buy something new every time I turn around on this project. I did get a press a while back to be...

Very nice! I'd considered just buying a whole unit but last I checked the Dr was slammed and understaffed so mostly selling parts rather than any finished units or 3rd members, hence the decision to gather parts myself and try my best (fingers crossed)... I do imagine that, like yours, mine...

Car is a 76 Scamp with 225. I've finished the front suspension and brake upgrade and am moving on to the rear. Plan is to pull the 7.25 out and replace with 8.75. I looked for an 8.25 for a while bit never found one. The reason for the upgrade is: 1. To be able to put disc brakes on rear 2. Big...

They had grease already inside them. Noticed when I popped the caps off to grind them down. Thanks for checking.

#2 is in... takes about the same effort to lift/lower as #1, so I'm gonna guess it's ok... now ready to move on to these giant brakes :):thumbsup:

Ugh- I didn't like it either! I would've been much happier if they'd have slid right into place like they should have, but I'm quickly learning nothing goes as smooth as you hope on these projects.

Thanks for the note- I did tighten it up but have the poly bushings on the LCA pin- from what I read on here that is only a concern with the rubber bushings.

They are indeed poly bushings. Right now they fit tight enough that pivoting them up/down is almost a 2 handed job, but not difficult... definitely staying still unless moved by hand. I did end up having to pop the metal caps out of the bushings on the inner side of each arm and use the grinder...

Ok- did the trimming and have the first one so it will move throughout full travel from top until it hits the rubber stop at the bottom. How easily should it pivot? Like should gravity lower it to the bottom, or is it ok if I have to push it up/down with moderate force?

Thank you!

Thanks much - actually just bought some new grinder wheels today and will make sparks tomorrow.

Disclaimer - I'm not a mechanic but am learning.... Been doing a rebuild/upgrade on the suspension on my 76 Scamp. Did the LCA rebuild with the forged pivot pins from PST. Finally managed to get the torsion bars back in earlier today. Now moved on to the tubular UCA's and am confused. The set...

Disregard. I finally got it after an excessive amount of sweat, profanity, and smashed fingers.

Thanks. Your way is actually how I did it first, but the shaft kept rotating in the bushing while trying to tighten it down. Went searching for answers, found this thread, and successfully got the shaft in, but now obviously ran into a different issue to overcome.

This is the driver side. When I was using the clamp I basically had one side on the back of the LCA where the torsion bar inserts and the other end on the thread end of the pivot shaft. Squeezed as hard as I could and this is all the farther I could get it.