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Is there any sure way to know if a cam will clear without installing and measuring it?

I recently replaced my cam with a .550 lift solid roller cam. .587 with my 1.6 rockers. I measured my piston to valve clearance using Comp's checker springs and a feeler gauge and with .020 lash I have .250 clearance on the Intake at 10* ATDC and .266 on the exhaust at 5* BTDC. That was a lot...

Even with the .580 lift I had adequate piston to valve clearance. The spring compressed height is within Comps recommendations as well. And I'm running 3/8 pushrods without problem with the 1.6 rockers. I had to grind down the aluminum in several places but they fit fine now. As long as...

I think I feel comfortable just cleaning up the pan and replacing the pump. I'll also probably blow out the pickup as well. I think the oil pump ground the few bits of iron that got into the system to dust and the filter was brand new so I'm betting nothing substantial made it through. You can...

I admit that I hadn't changed the oil yet. The purpose of my morning test drive was to warm it up prior to the change and make sure everything was running smoothly before I dumped $70 worth of oil in. I doubt changing the oil prior to warming it up would have made a difference. I'll never know...

It was able to spin freely. Even gave me a nice little inward dome on the lifter.

I'm honestly not sure. The rods were factory forged rods that were reconditioned. If I pull the pan I'll check.

I drained the oil and ran a magnet through the bottom of the drain pan and got almost nothing. There were a few dust like particles but nothing I would be concerned about. The oil coming out of the filter had a definite metallic sparkle but no real chunks. I haven't cut it open yet to see...

It might be the light. It does look different in the picture. All 15 other lifter bottoms still have a smooth machined surface. I'll post better pics when I get it out.

I wasn't 100% sure which lifter was making the racket previously but it is possible. Both from the passenger side head.

No such luck.

I'm about to do so now. I'll report back shortly.

I’ve had a lifter tick ever since my engine was new. I did all sorts of adjusting and never could get it to go away. I finally bought a second set of Comp lifters and replaced them. I used Camshaft Lube, Break in additive, and assembly lube all from Comp. I fired the engine and ran it between...

Well I'll definitely be readjusting the valves shortly. Is it possible I have the cam timing advanced too much? I seem to remember I advanced it some to lower the power curve because of the size of the cam, but don't remember how much. I'm bad about researching and not making a record of what I...

Chassis Dyno. This is a 4 speed car with 3.55 8 3/4 rear.

So I have an extra adjuster and locknut and decided to measure how much 1/8 turn actually is. I'm showing roughly .010 of an inch. A lot of what I'm reading says preload should be between .020 and .060. What are the effects of too little preload? In my mind having too much preload would cause...

Springs, retainers, keepers were all replaced with what comp recommended. When I had the motor out recently I decided to retorque the rockershafts and adjust the preload on the lifters. I'm wondering if I may not have enough preload and if this is the case would I see issues similar to what...

I may contact Comp and see what they have to say about my combo. From what I'm reading I have the right spring/cam combo. I just don't see what else it could be. maybe I'll buy the other set of springs that was mentioned and see if things change. They are rated at 370 in lbs where the springs I...

What do you mean by "corrected"? I was a little worried about the quality of the heads when I first got them so I had my machine shop look them over. I think they installed higher quality valve guides and seals. The springs are basically new and I have the correct retainers. The whole set up has...

So I found the original box the springs came in and I do indeed have the 924-16 springs. And I did installed the inner springs after engine break in.

These are the older style stealth heads. Although I'm not too sure what they changed. And this is a 4 speed car btw. Any suggestions on alternate springs? If the springs were struggling would it be audible? Any way I can rule out the ignition components without just replacing them.

Had my 440 tuned on the dyno today and drivability really improved but my numbers are a little below what I expected. About 350 HP and 405 ft lbs at the wheels. HP begins tapering off around 4500 and drops at 5500. Is this about right for my combo or do I have an issue? My setup is as follows...

What exactly is the purpose for those oil lines that are in the valley?

I didn't have to notch my k member with the schumacher mounts. If I was you, I'd find yourself a 400 block and build a 451 using your 440 crank. The lower deck height will make changing plugs much easier. I wish I had done that. Pro parts headers fit great. I just had to do a little hammering...

thats a quarter of a second :cheers: where's a good place to buy?

Wow, I didn't realize the bumpers were so heavy. I guess I should look into some fiberglass ones. what kind of weight difference could I get with glass hood and fenders?

no cage. but I do have Hotchkiss subframe connectors.

Big block 1" torsion bars as well. front and rear disk brakes. I think thats everything.

Just got back from the scales. the Duster weighed in at 3440 Lbs with half a tank of gas and no driver. Front end weight with 170 LBS of driver in the seat was 1970 LBS. Rear was at 1650. Thats not too bad of weight distribution for a big block car. Especially for a 4 speed. Here's my set up...

I'm sure the gauge is forking because it works fine when the engine is cool. And yes the motor was running on 0 fuel pressure. I had the short block assembled by my machinist. He is supposed to be the best in the area. I just ordered a fuel cooler and some line insulation. I didn't get...