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Get rid of the stainless steel flex fan. They do break from time to time. Plus they do not work well with a fan clutch. Sand and paint the OEM fan.

They came with a in/under dash unit from the factory. Controls are in the dash and the vents are under.

Boiling point of water with a 16 psi cap is 250 degrees F. 205 is not even close. If it really bothers you try a A/C water pump or play with the water pump pulley ratio.

Way over its 4k limit-most likely your earlier 6K runs caused fractures (or maybe over tighten bolts) and your last 6k run was to much for it..

205 degrees is fine after sitting in traffic. What pressure cap are you running?

Remember everyone-Fan RPM is not the same as engine RPM. You have pulley ratios to figure out to find the fan RPM.

The strap looks like it is to keep some duct work in place-some were. Does it have a bolt hole in it?

As far as I k now the spring only comes with the hose-buy a new hose.

I prefer " A Senior moment"

64 and down are dealer installed under dash A/C units. 65 and up are both dealer or factory installed units.

I think the shroud would depend on size of the fan and the location of the fan-is a slant six and a V8 fan in the same spot? That I do not know.

Thats about the way it should be-about 2" clearance. And a shroud would help. You want the fan near the fins to move the air through the radiator and not pick it up from around the sides.

If you want instant heat get a Southwind gas heater.

Chrysler used the 5/8" and 1/2" so the you would no swap them. If you do swap them by using two 5/8" hoses you run the risque of over powering the heater valve due to reverser water flow on the heater valve.

Does the cap spring up? Is the inner part of the cap (inner rubber seal) pushing down with proper force on the radiator? Is the rubber seal crack free? Is the inner seat in the radiator smooth and ding free? If no to any questions then it will not seal. Are you using a pressure/vacuum cap or...