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I am looking for something more along the lines of a cheap stock mount.

I have been running custom solid motor mounts and they work great, but I can no longer stand the harmonics and vibrations, so I would like to go with a stock style bracket and mount. It's going in a 65 Dart and the motor is a 73 440, I will be making perches to attach the mounts, my question is...

I put a Ford 8.8" rearend in my Dart (From a 91 Ranger), had to narrow one side as the carrier was offset 2", if you do a little research you will find there are plenty of in-expensive later model rearends that will work. I had a 7.25 and knew it wouldn't hold up long, my car was far from...

What bolt patterns are your new rims 5 on 4" (small bolt pattern) or 5 on 4.5" (big bolt pattern)

So it didn't matter what engine was in the vehicle at all. The entire rear was the same depending on the year? That's quite interesting. I'm obviously not as educated about the rear as I am other parts of the car. So I understand what the rear end is, but I thought it was all one part. It's...

Not sure what you mean there was 7.25 8.25 and 8.75 rearend for a-bodies.

Here is chart that has some measurement from bigblockdart.com http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/diffchart.shtml

Krabysniper. you'll be happy to know last week I ordered an offset adapter and new mastercylinder, will be upgrading the front brakes to disc before the car goes to the track.

Been driving for about a week now, no problems at all. The rear springs are new and seem a little stiff and I need some new shocks but otherwise no problems. Put on a set of 255 60 R15 Mickey Thompson street / drag radials and that took car of my traction problems. If I run into any problems...

Here is a detailed list of the expense" Rearend $175.00 Axle shaft $55.00 Machine Work $70.00 Brake Line $25.00 U-joint $27.00 Flange $32.00 ________________________ $384.00 Took about 20 hours...

Some more pictures

Okay I got the rearend in the weekend. I had to narrow 1 side by 2 inches, have the ax;e shaft machined and pressed back in, by a new axle, weld new spring perches, and make custom brackets for the springs, but turned out perfect. Ended up relocating the springs and I can now fit 11" tires...

I'll post some pics tomorrow, but I managed to get the longer axle tube out of the left side First had to drill out the pins with a 3/4" bit then tried heating up the housing with a torch to see if it would move with not luck. Finally ended up cutting it flat with the carrier, then using a...

That funny you ask, it's a rear end out of a 1991 4.0 Ranger 4x4, but my friend had it in his Bronco II. You have to find a 4.0 Ranger the others had 7.5" rear ends

My understanding is something with 2 seperate resovoirs. Mine is tiny and only has one. I suppose I could modify it, but essentially I was looking for an easy inexpensive swap. The other easy option is get a pre 1994 explorer rearend as they had drum brakes.

The disc brakes require a larger master cylinder with a seperate resoviour (with the big block wedged in a 65 I barely have room for the master cylinder I currenty have and it is tiny. As far as narrowing the long side my original idea was just to narrow one side and use two of the passenger...

Ok, ran into a couple problems with the rearend (disc brakes & narrowing the longer side) amazingly a friend of of mine is restoring a bronco II and had a an 8.8" rearend out of a ranger he wanted a wider rearend and his 8.8" is 2" narrower than mine his also has new drum brakes, which will be...

Sorry for the delay, the rear end is still sitting in my garage, going to get to in a week or so. Found a great deal on a new motor, so I've working on that, although I did get in the car and the cam broken in last night. As soon as I have some pics I will post them.

Got the drive shaft straigtend and balanced and put it back in, it helped some but the vibration is still there. Any other suggestions?

I appreciate your speal and learned a lot, especially the part about coasting with the engine shut off luckily I don't do that to often:) I do have Two brand new 7290 U joints both ends of the drive shaft look good with no wear and the u-joints have a tight fit.

to get the 727 to fit I had to pound the seam flat and it slide right in, I have about 1-2" of clearance all the way around the tunnel. Also I would think if the tranmission were hitting the tunnel I would hear a rattle this is an obvious vibration, I feel in the steering wheel, and the WHOLE...

Thanks Big Denny that solves my narrowing problems, now I figured out how I can do it without messing with the tapered end. :-)

Ok need some more suggestions on my cars vibration problems. Here is what I've done so far: Replaced front tires and rims (originals could not be balanced), had the rear wheels balanced, replaced all 4 shocks, checked the transmission angle which is at 4* up checked the pinion angle which is...

Not sure my original plan of narrowing the long side is going to work. The axle housing is taperd the last 2"s and I need to narrow it 2 3/16 to get the axle shaft to fit. May need to find a larger flange or perhaps narrow the end closet to the housing..

Brand new Mancini poly mount

But the vibration goes away when the motor is shut off and I am coasting in neutral, so the torque convertor and dampner are not spinning, when I rev the motor up to 4,000 RPM there is no vibration either.

I replaced the wheels and had them balanced, replaced the shocks, checked the pinion angel and the transmission angel with no problems, well now the car handles much better but still vibrates. So I was thinking it was the solid motor mounts that was used, so I got the car up to 60mph put it...

Ok I figured out the U-joints. Spicer makes a flange to a 1310 U-joint conversion yoke, then they make a 1310 / 7260 combination u-joint So here is my total so far: rear end $175.00 a second shorter axle for $25.00 Rotors turned...

I picked up the rear end, the one they quoted me on was not out of the car so they gave me one from a car with 25,000 miles. Also got the shorter right hand axle, but the rotors are really rusty and they didn't have the calipers. So I need to invest a little more in those. Saturday I will get...

Someone help me out with a place to get a conversion U-joint for the swap.