Length of the rear end?

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bthieson

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I own a 1972 Duster with a slant 6. I have no idea how long my rear end is from wheel to wheel. Would any of you have that information? If I was looking to swap in a new rear, is it possible to find something of equal or very close length but much beefier?
 
Flange to flange (not wheel to wheel) length of what you have now (assuming it's the original 7 1/4" rear) should be 53.200". An 8 1/4" rear out of a 73 - 76 A body would measure 51.400". The spring perches measure 43.02" center to center on both of these.
 
Not sure what you mean there was 7.25 8.25 and 8.75 rearend for a-bodies.
 
I'm obviously not as educated about the rear as I am other parts of the car. So I understand what the rear end is, but I thought it was all one part. It's not?
 
So it didn't matter what engine was in the vehicle at all. The entire rear was the same depending on the year? That's quite interesting.

I'm obviously not as educated about the rear as I am other parts of the car. So I understand what the rear end is, but I thought it was all one part. It's not?

There several parts to a rearend but the size refers to the ring gear ie 7.25" has a 7.25" ring gear 8.25 has an 8.25" ring gear etc the axles come in both small and large bolt patterns for you wheels. Tell us what you're trying to accomplish and we can give you some suggestions on rearends
 
Well, I just purchased some new rims to go with my current setup, but I plan on installing one of those crate 360's down the road. I figured that I was going to need a beefier rear, and just assumed that meant everything.
 
What bolt patterns are your new rims 5 on 4" (small bolt pattern) or 5 on 4.5" (big bolt pattern)
 
I put a Ford 8.8" rearend in my Dart (From a 91 Ranger), had to narrow one side as the carrier was offset 2", if you do a little research you will find there are plenty of in-expensive later model rearends that will work. I had a 7.25 and knew it wouldn't hold up long, my car was far from original so I went with a cheaper alternative, so far I have had no problems and I have made 25 passes with it. Most of the die hard Mopar people will tell you to go with a Mopar 8.75 with the limited availabilty and cost I opted for the Ford.
 
bthieson said:
I figured that I was going to need a beefier rear, and just assumed that meant everything.
Click to expand...
Usually it does mean everything but sometimes you just can't find the right rear for your application. Especially when you're looking for heavy parts like a rear.....shipping is an issue so you tend to look locally.

You might find a find a complete A body 8.75" but it might be a 2.75 open with the small bolt pattern axles. So now you've got to find a sure grip diff, 3.55" gears and big bolt pattern axles.
 
Hey and Hello,
I just popped a 8.25 from a late Duster into my 69 Valiant. It also came with 11x2" brakes already on it. The cost was inexpensive compared to going with the venerable 8.75 or better. For my current plans (more a suspension car than a straight line terror) this puppy will work just dandy.

Rev
 
Let's try this...

valiant 012.jpg
 
Got that puppy from Atlas Auto Salvage up around Hollywood. Painted it, added the Mopar Performance rear cover, and viola' a cool rear for the Valiant.

Rev

valiant23.JPG
 
i normally dont like other car company(ford,chevy) stuff on my mopar but i think a rear end is something i will get from a ford either 8.8 or 9in cause i cant justify 500+ for a mopar rear where i can get a junk yard ford 9in cheap for 100-200
 
1966 dart wagon said:
i normally dont like other car company(ford,chevy) stuff on my mopar but i think a rear end is something i will get from a ford either 8.8 or 9in cause i cant justify 500+ for a mopar rear where i can get a junk yard ford 9in cheap for 100-200
Click to expand...
I agree.

I recently put a 9" from a '66 T-bird under my '69 Valiant project. At 61.5" drum face to drum face, it's a little wider than a B body 8.75" but for $125 whaddya want? '05-'07 Bullitt rims fit nicely and the spring perches are only off 1/2".
 
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