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Here are some pics

I realize its been a few months since I've posted anything on this thread. After some looking around I finally got my hands on a 8.75 rear end and a set of 3:55 gears. In addition I ended up ordering "stock" ride height springs, shackles, ujoints and poly rubber grommets all from Espo...

I originally thought to use a 5/16 bolt and nut combo to secure to the shaft but then realized Flaming River gives you a 5/16 roll-pin that goes in flush. Looks much cleaner overall.

If you go with the flaming river piece it has a pre-drilled hole on one side of the coupler which makes perfect for a pilot hole. Go to your local hardware store and get a Cobalt 5/16" hardened drill bit, should run about $6. I was like you thinking it would be hard to drill thru the...

Got the Flaming River piece in and not only does it fit the splines and shaft perfectly but it looks pretty nice too. Looking back I wish I had gone this route from the start, it would of saved me alot of time. Yeah its not cheap but once its in hand, you can see why. I just cut...

This is what I ordered - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1506p/overview/

I got the Borgeson joint in today. Spline side is way too small. Tried persuading it with a rubber mallet and no go. Ended up calling Flaming River and they confirmed that Chryslers 5/8 is bigger than the Universal 5/8 which is why Boregons U joint doesn't work. Luckily Summit did an...

I just called Steer & Gear who recently rebuilt my gear box and talked to Tom who's an A-body guy. He said guys come to him with this steering coupler conversion to U-joint question all the time. Mainly guys stuffing big blocks in the A-bodies with little header room. He suggested the...

Thanks for the heads up, I'm also going to try these people - http://www.borgeson.com/ My biggest fear now are the splines not lining up.

Here's where you can see how obviously larger diameter Bryke's U-joint is..

Looks like Flaming River sells a 5/8-36 spline to 3/4 smooth bore steering coupler. Not sure if going the U joint route is better? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1943

Apparently Chrysler had a specific spline so universal U-joints wont work. Flaming River is about the only option out there for this style mod.. Its almost as much as rebuilding my entire PS Gear box going with the "firm" feel. unreal.

I just got my U joint from Bryke. Smooth 3/4 side fits great. Spline side is way to big. Apparently what I have is a Chrysler 5/8 not 3/4. They have nothing that will work so I have to mail it back for a refund. I tried Flaming River but they want $200 for the damn 3/4-5/8-36 spline...

Very nice! Looks like maybe 1" higher than where I'm at now.. When you say 002/003 are you saying Espo or stock Mopar springs?

Got any pics you can post up here?

I'm running Cragar 15" all around

Thanks for posting your pics on here guys. Nothing like visual. My shocks are actually pretty new. I think the side picture of my car is a little deceiving. Here's another angle shortly after paint.

Good point. Whenever I have two semi heavy adults in the rear seat I notice the car bottoms out. In the future I'll have my two kids riding in the back if anyone. I also just bought a 8.75 / 3:55 complete rear end that I'll be installing and since I'd be there I figured swap. A buddy...

Wondering what some of you guys are running for rear leaf springs? I was advised to check out Espo but don't have a clue on what to look or ask for. My car is mainly used for street driving (picture attached). I like the stance of the car now so I'm wondering if there's a spring that'll...

Yeah I highly doubt the binding issue. The people at Bryke make those couplers specifically for their late model dirt track cars which probably see a whole lot more steering action than a street car ever would. Hence is why they weld their couplers to the shafts.

Smart move Meridian, I'm gonna drill a hole just in case I need to pull if off in the future. I almost went with Flaming River but their price was over $20 more than Bryke. By the looks of it this mod is so much cleaner than stock and I'll have tons more clearance around my headers...

I had to stick my finger inside the coupler to find the pin. On the outside it was hidden by all the dirt and grease. Ended up using a 3/32" pin punch and she came right out. Called Bryke racing and ordered that 3/4 - 36 spline U joint. Guy on the phone suggested I weld the...

Thanks again Meridian, Issue I'm having now is I can't find the small pin to knock out. Do you or anyone know if they had the small pin in 73?

Man I love the looks of that new style coupler. Biggest issue I have now is the rubber and stock coupler are too close to my Dougs headers. I have power steering so the box is a bit big. This new style coupler looks like it eliminates all that garbage. I'm going to go with that...

Thanks for that illustration Daliant! The small pin your talking about won't come out as easy as the roll pin. I'm guessing it needs more force to pop out? Also, I was gonna buy the seal and cover from Steer and Gear but wasn't sure if you knew of another place?

I have a 73 dart with PS. I'm trying to replace the steering coupler rubber boot and metal piece. Was wondering if anyone knew how to take the actual coupler off the shaft once its removed from the PS splines. Thanks in advance..