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I believe it was injected between the two shafts to keep them from rusting or seizing together so they could telescope. A cast in place & to size bushing/glide. On most columns without the Teflon they would have a noisy and sloppy fit that wouldn't remain strait while turning. Bad for precise...

I have had many columns apart. The pin your thinking of is no pin at all. It is sprue left in the drilled access hole for the injection process of nylon into a machined inner cavity between the two shafts. The sprue does nothing as the working nylon is still inside working as a glide. Some do...

Like mentioned already the segment lengths are different. So they are not a direct bolt in. If I was determined to use what you already have without spending I would remove the springs and separate the leaf packs. You could stack all the lower B body leaves under the original a body main leaf...

As a general rule The faster a fish goes the more its tail wi

The transverse torsion bar frt suspensions were a popular streetrod type suspension graft in the past. They came in different widths also. The f body should be close. Not sure it would be worth the effort but.... I have seen them put under vintage pickups and 50s and older cars. Probably won't...

Could a rear sump truck pan clear the cross member without moving the engine into the firewall?

Have you compared the track width between the two. A crown Vic engine should bolt right over that.

Rebuilding the stock a body suspension with 73 up parts is about as cheap as it gets. Will work well for street, autocross or drag racing to some degree. But best if you choose one of the three and tailor pick the parts to suit. There really is no such thing as one size fits all without taking...

Being that A bodies are unibodies adapting another cars chassis is much more difficult than overcoming the header clearance or cost of the available kits for most builders. Then there is the bucks down hands on type guys that prove everybody wrong. If I was to have a go at sidestepping the...

If your car is set up as was done in the 70s put some traction bars on it. If you got it lowered like many do today use the more modern caltracs. Both perform the same function. Both need to be set up proper. Just choose to suit the styling of your car so they don't look out of place.

Have you checked the tires for wear? Wonder if your alignment is affected by a worn part. Idler or steering box loose? Crack in k-frame at steering box?

You are correct on the size. 1 59/64" across the flats for the 73 up disc brake large ball joint. If you need the Moog socket # it is T 412 It is a good quality socket but is 3/4" drive. I use a adaptor to get it on my Ingersoll 1/2" impact. I don't have a snap-on or mac #??

A loosened up wore set is best. You should be looking for about 3" of rise on the body during a launch without the shocks reaching their extended limit.

Nice photo, what you are calling polished and I am calling brushed appears to be the same finish from what I see in your picture. That is how I remember them. I have also seen wheels with chrome plated wheels that have the reflection of a bumper. But only more recent. I always figured they were...

As far as I know all the tuff wheels were the same with brushed finish spokes. Later year Cordoba's brought about colored grips other than the standard musclecar black. light and dark blue, red, tan or yellow are some I remember seeing. They all are foam injected into a mold made from a hand...

If your frame socket is solid and not twisting it would be the bar. I'd get it out of there before it snaps in two.

Depends on how loaded or tight the snubber is to the spring. If this is track only I would mount the snubbers directly under and contacting the front spring eye. Spring pack clamped at every leaf forward of the axle housing also reduces pinion wind up. The less it winds up the less nose down...

Once you learn where to hit them with the big hammer they will drop right out with one or two swings. I haven't used the pickle fork in decades. Good aim with a hammer makes this job very easy. The idea is to smack/shock the female taper into distorting a bit. The male tapered pins fall...

Bushing is gone.

The spline in the end of the coupler is different manual to power. No bolts or pins keeping the solid shaft from sliding in the hollow shaft. They inject nylon thru the hollow tube into a machined groove in the solid shaft. Its supposed to make it collapse easier and prevent them from...

I've had some slide very easy and others that you would damage the collars before they would move. On those I took the column apart to get them to the correct length.

Just thought of this, did you leave all the floor bolts loose till after you connected the coupler to the spined gear box. The floor plates have oversized holes to allow for mounting column in without side tension on the outer tube.

I'd take it apart and check straitness of tube and shaft. Lower bushings wear out as they are not made out of much. The expanded metal tubes can get bent and collapsed. I've had to correct a couple from cars that had been in light collisions. Not much else can cause that much misalignment.

There is no need to rebuild column over shear pins. There is no such thing. What people think are pins is just a drilled hole in the outer telescoping tube. It is drilled as a means to inject the nylon in between the solid shaft and tube to create a slip joint for the shaft to collapse...

That second leaf is right where it needs to be for slapper bars. I would clamp it tight to the main leaf and make slapper bars with a heavy bumper right under the very end of that second leaf. Clamp every forward leaf and leave the rear clamps off except close to the shock plate. It will...

Hurst is said to have removed 2" from the outer jacket of the column. This is from the Authenticity Guide again. I have found many errors in the guide as my car is going together. Seems the owners of the real SS cars do this intentionally so truly accurate clones aren't easily built and...

More risk there than I'd ever take. They are locked in on a taper unless bumped just right.

This is just another one of the many things that has changed about modifying an A-body. There are so many choices today with the pre fabricated bolt on parts. I believe the biggest reason for this is marketing. A part can be fixture welded and put in a box and shipped UPS. Chassis shops are...

Most cars won't need all this as they won't be pushed like this was built for.

The best way to approach any type of competitive build is to understand the design of what you have and why it is built the way it is. And why it reacts as it does to driver input. Then you can determine how and what to modify to make an improvement. Contact patch is #1. It is the only...