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Please not paper towels, they absorb water from the air...

The "correct piece" shown earlier is one for an automatic, but I haven't seen any kickdown linkage, right? where did you find that? is there a description or part #?

The part of the throttle cable that connects to the the arm off the carb cannot be held tight, it needs to pivot on the throttle stud (which in your case is a bolt?). You shouldn't be bolting it to the throttle arm on the carb.

see post #7, put two wrenches on the NUTS - the one toward the carb 1 hex to the left of the wrench on the one farthest from the carb so they form a narrow "V". Grab both wrenches at the same time in one hand and squeeze them together

Ethanol is a problem for carburetor cars. These carbs were designed at a time when they had vented fuel bowls and gas had a bunch of stabilizers in it so that the fuel would evaporate less readily. Once cars all came with sealed fuel injection systems, the gas makers did away with the...

Now the next question is... does the OP's gas have ethanol in it???

Have used their thermostat gaskets for a few years - they work even if you have some pits and such on the manifold surface. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!! I tried their valve cover gaskets a few months ago and they leaked like a sieve. I think there is just too much space between the bolts and the...

I have been using a product called Carb Defender in ethanol gas for many years. The hygroscopic nature of the ethanol, combined with the fact that left sitting any real length of time our vented carbs will allow the gas to evaporate faster than the ethanol, further concentrating the ethanol and...

I have a Weber 32/36 progressive on my 84 Rampage 2.2. WARNING: you can only run between 2 and 3 PSI of fuel pressure with those carbs.

For years at the place where I worked we used the word "squozen". As in "George was squozen to do this job". It was always something that was difficult to do so the term was a combination of squeezed and chosen - they picked you to do the job because of a skill that you had and you should be...

try searching for Quanta restoration belts. Segmented belts suck.

In your picture it looks like there is a bit of a bulge on the other side of the plug too. Are they perhaps there to make sure the plug doesn't catch on anything?

making sure the rails are flat and the holes haven't been pulled in is critical. You might try some of the aftermarket pieces that go under the bolt head to spread the pressure. I actually like the silicone gaskets with the metal core...

The idea that you can look at 45 year old engine and think that is the color the engine was when it was built is just silly. Of course new corporate blue paint looks brighter and bluer than faded paint on an old engine...

Compared to a stock trans in a 68 the gears are wider spaced in 1st thru 3rd. First gear seriously lower, second half that difference. This means you can use lower gears out back and still have some umph getting going, or keep the current gears and get a boost in first and second and still have...

so do you have solid or hydraulic lifters???

Not just any exhaust leak, a leak between the head and the headers. Was the mating surface on the headers flat? did you use some nice thick gaskets? Think about this scenario - The exhaust stroke puts pressure against the pipe and the exhaust bolts and pushes the header away from the head...

So I bothered to look it up and the spec for a later 225 (based on OP's avatar) calls for 750. But then this isn't a stock set up. For comparison the spec for a 1970 318 is 700, but for a 340 it's 900. I'm also curious if you (OP) are using gas with ethanol and if so are you using an additive...

I'd start by raising the unloaded idle to 1000 rpm, isn't the stock spec 1200?

I know this is really simple but what are your idle RPMs in and out of gear?

IMHO it wasn't one of Ma Mopar's best ideas, bringing washer fluid into the vehicle just to pump it out again. When it leaks (hose or rubber boot) it soaks right into the carpet and rots the floor pan. If you have a foot pump and want to switch to an electric pump and leave all the water...

At least if they repop them you could probably find linkage and stuff to go with it easier...

Hats off to HotRod777! After years of going to lots of Mopar shows, it is really great to see something different, out of ordinary, eye catching... plus I'm always a sucker for multiple carbs. Congratulations on some vision and the skills to pull it off!

assuming there has never been gas in the carb, I'd run it. The worst that could happen is that it would leak and you would have to replace the gaskets and it could mean years of worry free service with nothing done. I would follow slantsixdan's recommendations...

WAAAAY COOL !!!!!!

Try going to Pierce Manifolds on line. All they deal with are webers and the have manifolds and carbs for /6 - two down draft 32/36 or three sidedraft dual Webers. Saw a set on a 1970 challenger at shows this summer and they sure looked sweet. Owner said they drive nice and were a big...

no thermostat lets the water run too quickly through the radiator for proper cooling leading to water that hotter than it should be back into the engine. Like another poster here said, at least gut a thermostat to replicate the restriction to slow the flow