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I want to use the later post 73 crank/rods/pistons in the early - pre-73 block. the reason is the later engine was rebuilt without the crack being spotted, and it had a coolant leak into the valley AND into the oil feed to the right side rocker shaft. Pulled the heads and intake....and found...

The replacement block that I have is a pre-74 (1971 I think). The cracked block is a 1984. Pistons, rods and crank are all ready to install into the 71n block. HOWEVER: the #3 bearing is different (not completely sure...but thrust face dim?). Anyway; what do I have to do to make the 84...

My 84 318 block is cracked. I want to swap the entire 84 rotating assembly into the earlier block. I understand the #3 bearing changed at the thrust bearing area, but I'm not clear as to how. Can I make this crank swap? will the crank work? what do I need to do? I also want to use the...

I'm looking at buying new main bearings for a 73 318, standard. I've seen some bearing mfrs list bearings for 65-84, and others list 65-73 then 73-85. What changed in bearings around 73? why are some compliant for all years and others not?? _ _ _ just found an old thread that the...

it is will heavy heart, that I report to you today that the block is indeed, dead. Pressurizing the oil supply passage, I get a leak into the valley. A lateral crack 1/2" below the deck height, stretching at least 6". Not only does it leak coolant into the oiling passage, it also leaks...

yes; its the passage from the cam on the passenger side. Video of leak (post 18) WITHOUT additional pressure (just temp. differential) you get coolant dribbling out. Pressurizing the coolant side gives alot more coolant flow. I'm thinking leak between coolant passage and oil passage...

UPDATE: Both cylinder heads off to the machine shop. both cut ~ .005 for flatness. both leakchecked good. Assembled it up....ran it.....same problem. Leaking coolant into oil Same place too, same side. Removed the right valve cover and rocker shaft. Pressurized the cooling system...

both heads back from the shop. both leak tested fine, no problem. each needed a .006 worth of cutting to get them flat. These are early 70s heads that are NOT original to this 84 block. 84 block was rebuilt at one time. heads were never cut before. Heads going back on with sealant on the...

rags all over, except for deck. vacuumed too. wiped clean. Just small areas at a time. I made sure it wasn't shedding. No sign of the Fed-Pro521 gasket lifting for coolant to leak. going to have the heads checked, and run it again. If bad, yank the whole thing......... :(

Rigth side Cylinder head went to the shop. Pressure tested perfect. Flatness....not so much. .004 warped! Its getting a light cut. I should have it back next week. I'm going to pull the left head and get that checked out too, while most everything is broken down. Pressure test and...

trapster: thanks for the offer...but we'll learn more trying to figure this one out. good exercise! I did pick up a core 73 318 cheap if I need to take a cylinder head off of it. Same casting numbers as what I'm using. nm9: There was minimal is any pressure on the coolant system when we...

Pulled the head: flat with no obvious cracks. head gasket perfect. block surface looks good, no cracks. SOMEHOW....water getting into that oil passage to tower. The LONG head bolt at the oiling rocker shaft tower had water wet threads. Now I'm thinking - - maybe the threads are pulled...

Anyone have any extra cylinder heads???????????

will try to post a video later tonight. DId a compresson test: all cylinders dry, 135-150 psi. Did a Block Leak test with the blue fluid.....no combustion gases in coolant. Pulled the rocker shafts to close all the valves to do a leak down. Low and behold; fresh coolant leaking from the...

I still had air, so the level dropped when the T stat opened. You are right though..... just noticed it when the tstat would have opened. coincidence. I'm thinking once temp was up and the pressure was building, it leaked. certainly not residual water from the last time. I got it all all...

Everything was running great.....until the car got up to temp. The t-stat opened.....it started to run a little rougher, but not much. shut it down....looked at the dip stick...... oh...man...... Water puked into the oil A G A I N. I'm not a happy camper. at all. new intake gaskets...

750 or so at idle. No ported vacuum at that point. unplugged the line, absolutely no change in timing This is a good vid. on basics of advance....

The mechanical advance will only give me 23 degrees as set - on top of the 13 intial. with no vacuum connected, I get to 36 degrees by 2500 or so...... no load on engine. with the vacuum connected to ported vacuum....its opens up to the low 40s..... I could adjust the vacuum advance to...

I should be more clear...sorry. Once warm and running....I shut it down. wthing a minute, I turn the key - -its should start with NO throttle, just on the idle circuit. nice quick start. I now have it doing that. I know that you need your foot in it, for setting the choke and some fuel...

moving the advance to ported vacuum. the 18 initial idles smoother than the 13.....but takes too long to start. Without touching the accelerator: needs 5 seconds of crank time before it starts at 18 initial. needs 3 seconds of cranking to start at 13 degrees initial. I wish if would start...

The engine is finally running, after the intake coolant debacle of this past June. I just wanted to post the carb/timing if anyone is interested. .020 over pistons, stock heads 84 318- all new bearings / seals... timing set has Dakota tensioner. Cam: Sum-6901 Dist: Jegs Electronic...

UPDATE: its all back together with the good Felpro head gaskets and the thicker, composite intake gaskets. As of the last 30 min. run time, no oil/water issues! The original problem must have been intake leak between the alum. intake and stock iron head, when using the steel gasket - even with...

I couldn't tell what side was smoking; it was running through a Y pipe. Lifters are off center from the camshaft lobes to assist in lifter rotation by design Cam bolt was torqued and lock-tite'd in place by me, I'd bet my life its not loose. I'm going to bet on intake manifold leak at water...

Felpro 1243 is for 318 small ports. Felpro 1213 is for 340-360 large ports. The Edelbrock intake is the large port, as it fits 318-240-360. Should I use the 1243 gasket? or 1213? or it doesn't matter. manifold was not re-torqued after run in. Things seem to be making sense. Even though...

After I saw the smoke - I looked in the radiator, and the level was low. got the sinking feeling in the gut. I checked the oil, and the level was 1" above the mark and frothy. typical indicator of coolant in the engine oil. No oil went into the coolant. That was all pristine "green". I...

just a weird light trick. springs are good. I can see no tears in the head gaskets. intake gasket destroyed in removal....not much to tell. I certainly don't want to fire up the parts cannon! This is our HS project car. It finally got running on the last day or classes for the cam break...

There was no smoking or oil / coolant loss during the cam break in. The engine has maybe 20 min. run time after cam break in. It was in the process of finalizing timing and carb setup issues. At least the carb issue is fixed. The smoking started soon after playing with timing. That may or...

pulled off the heads as well. no sign of a gasket failure. I would rather have seen one! Intake gasket also looked fine. Not sure where the leak occurred. I top flush everything I could with fresh oil.....and continuously flush the pan. I going to manual rotate the oil pump with fresh...

freshly frustrated and pissed, I spent the next 2 hrs to see this: