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"Stock" was around .870, go .890 (383 A body) for improved handling, or .920. dont even think about anything larger than that for a small block.

If you think the 8 3/4 is hard to find in some parts over there, think of how much harder it is here in Australia, with 9" units being abundant. Still, I never considered a 9" for my cuda and am very happy that I came across an 8 3/4 (489 carrier, 3.23, open) from an Oz Dodge Phoenix (only Mopar...

Anyone use these springs (P4120863 right, P4120864 left)? Are they super stock springs, if so how much lift do they provide in the rear over stock HD springs (which I have now)? I want to get the arse of my 68 up in the air just a little more (and use even larger (bias ply, MTs or Pro Trac)...

Hey all, Can anyone provide some pics of an A body steering shaft? In my 68 cuda I'm using an Australian A body steering shaft which is modified with a female splined end to accept a brand X intermediate shaft coupling. I'm running this with my right hand drive rack and pinion set up. I had...

If it is 48" total width with the axles installed (and judging by the add and pictures that's what he is saying) the actual housing length itself is going to be way shorter in length (say, around 43"). Given spring perch width is 43" for an A body the ends of the housing are going to be sitting...

Yes I understand what you are saying, but just wondering whether I'm the ballpark or not - don't most aftermarket suspension companies over there sell as a standard upgrade sway bars of a certain thickness? Anyway, the car is as pictured, 360, 8 3/4, HD leafs, stock torsion bars (upgrade...

What about the size though? Too big or just right?

What's the optimum diameter for an A body front sway bar? I can pick a used one up here for my 68, it's 31mm or 1.22 inches. Would that be about right?

I'm just going to run block huggers on mine to avoid spending all that coin on custom headers. Or I could get off the shelf tri-ys over here and mod the steering side, but it's more hassle than its worth. But I'm surprised Firmfeel feel that an A body version of their E body rear rack is not...

You dont see any advantage in maintaining factory steering geometry? Yes the rack is marginally larger than a draglink, but the exhaust is not so close that it would "cook it" at all. I'm using a Milodon high volume pan with it, that's good enough for me. There are pros and cons to forward and...

You mean the arms that extend from the K member, to which the rack is bolted, Jeff? The arms are boxed for strength and were professionally welded using a jig, to ensure correct positioning. This would work on US K frames, and you guys have such an assortment of left hand drive steering racks...

Here's a pic of mine - yeh, right hand drive - but with the rack mounted on arms welded to the K member. The rack is positioned in the same position as the stock drag-link and maintains factory geometry. A Milodon "LoPro" oil pan fits perfectly, with it being notched in the area where the rack...

Try this link Tyler, it should have all the info you need re: 8 3/4 dimensions for B and C bodies etc. http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

What about torque boxes?

Just wondering, what's the consensus on tubular upper control arms for street use? Are they strong and safe enough for regular use? Do they place added stress on the control arm mounting points in the frame rails? I have a set installed on my 68 cuda, made here in Australia, with added...