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lets talk next spring and you can try n **** on my strut front end as well thats replacing this stuff. your input was very helpful. thank you so much.

update...it aligned perfect with ease on a digital rack even. thanks yall.

in kansas city there is. aint no traction compound for snow yet besides spikes. lol

that thin? 1/2 billet steel is to thin? the spacers are for bumpsteer, the rack is on the inside of the actual wheel. my driver side is near perfectly aligned. turning radius is exactly as the original torsion setup was. akerman angle everyone speaks of is fine even better than most modern...

so im at 1.2° at ride and 0° on near full extension both sides. not to shabby. set toe at 1/8 in. friday put it on digital rack and see how close. sorry didnt mean to highjack this thread.

lower control arm is in the exact mounting points etc as the stock lca. it is just built to use a coilover and not break. doesnt hve the u/j shape of the stock lca. it looks odd but its really close on the camber, perfect caster and toe is easy to adjust once i get the camber right. its like...

no itnis not a qa1 k member or lower setup. it is a custom made one. coilovers are mounted to the rollcage down bars.

it was originally built with stock uppers on it. i added the qa1 uca to the equation and thats my fault. it is plenty adjustable but its to much for my non suspension understanding self.

i just need this to last the race season. going to spindle over winter to gain much needed travel.

i been staring at this dang thing for an hour. my wheel travel up and down is like this /---/. do i want it \---/ or do i want it /---\ for drag racing? this a 1500rwhp car. so its gotra be stable at 160+

okay. i bought new ones but didnt realize that is what adjusted the camber at all. so pass side move the rear adjuster washers/offset more towards the inside center of the car correct?

i am so confused by what adjusters you guys are speaking of on the upper control arms. i have tubular qa1 uppers. how do i fix the massive camber issue i have on my pass side?

positive caster added by qa1 upper control arms. do they have add cast in them? i have the qa1 non adjustable uppers and custom heim end lowers with coiloverz. i need to adjust caster and camber before i do toe adjustments on the rack n pinion. any pointers? my dr side is damn nesr perfect...

i had to cut my frame rail to fit the adjusting bolt for my front hangers. and dented the frame rail behind that to clear my asassin bars as well.

300lbs of lead in places, fully adjustable custom valved shocks, and holley efi wheel speed management.

thank you. that is what i needed to know.

well actually more like 15-1800whp but not totally lost on the leafs. i just dont wanna buy new monos when i am going ladder bars very shortly after a few tnt weeks go by and winter sets in. i was more wondering about the leaf clamps themselves. i have 2 that have some wiggle in them(1 per...

like the title says. i still have my stock multi leafs and i am about to throw a serious power gauntlet at them. what do i need to look for inspection wise to make sure they will stay together at least for a couple of hits with 1000rwhp on off the transbreaks? smith race craft assassin bars...

prolly sit an inch lower once its sprung with coilovers all around. currently solid on the front end and facing down hill so even the back is sitting higher than it does in the flat garage surface.

or buy my 67 alum one im about to toss in the recycler thats good to go. just change to your arm off tours and off ya go.

well there is decades of data to use honestly. the future is now and still changing as days go by. remember top fuel used to be a lap belt and single halo style cage on dragsters. crazy in todays mindset but back then it wasnt a priority or fear. times and people change focus or expand that...

sorry you took my sarcastic response as golden. i have always had a saying that my wife uses often. "something is something and thats better than nothing at all". most think of connectors of long ways strengthing. most dont realize they are for twisting of the car like wringing out a...

yep pretty close. mine is welded all the way down the rail and then the top plate was welded back on with thicker material. welded on all sides the length of the insert into the rail. not really a better way to do it. i like the extended use of the existing frame rail a lot. those diag bars...

sarcasm is a tough thing to express in text. but the simple fact my subframe connectors are not just a strait shot. they go all the aay up the frame rail into the front and rear factory frame. then they also connect on both ends of the rocker panels crating a torsional stiffening of the...

last one. notice the support from the rocker to the connector? thats the thickest part of the cente rof the cwr as mentioned earlier in this thread.

glad you asked...any questions?

you all did it wrong. ill take mine over any pictured in this thread.

i guess my heads up weight is not worth the ballast to move to improve traction. if i can get my car to weight 2800lbs with me in it. i have 500lbs im able to move around front to rear and side to side for traction purposes. so yea weight means a lot to a few and little to most who dont push...

now all that is done and still want to remove weight, then what? i started off with manual steering, wilwood brakes, light wheels, but still no room anywhere in the engine compartment for nothing but expensive headers i couldnt use in my turbo build. yet i still end up running logs due to...

what does weight have to due with strength? that makes no sense to me. chromoly is far superior to sheetmetal stamped steel and can be packaged easier and far lighter.