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Brewers really helped me when I 4 speed swapped my dart

Correct me if I’m wrong... but with a reverse manual valve body can’t you remove the governor all together, wouldn’t that not be an issue?

So that would be rubber type gasket? Stock stamped steel type pan or cast pan? With the rubber gaskets if you use sealer and over tighten it can push the gasket out causing a leak. If stamped pan sometimes the bolt holes get dimpled from r&r causing it not to seal.

X2 on dr.diff!

Over full pushing out the vent? Also a good idea especially on a fresh build to make sure car is in neutral with "rear of car on jack stands just in case" when you fire it to make sure fluid is circulating. A cracked hub on the converter will dump some fluid, been there lol

Is it just me or is it missing the bearing retainer

just want to give a little shout out to a1 driveshaft in Baltimore, MD I called and gave him the measurements and an hour later he had it done, nice new shaft with solid 7290 u joints and my slip yoke. All steel slip yoke shafts are $250!!!

if the u joints are not the same, the conversion u joint will be fine unless your making some power....just make sure you get the right one for your yoke, inside clips or outside locating tabs

make sure the 3rd members have the same yoke/u joint size

I know my buddy runs one in his twin turbo 302 s10 and has not had any problems with it

idk much about them, but I know a guy with one in a copo Camaro and it's a pretty slick unit!

could be low/reverse band too tight

as long as it's not burned up and wasn't leaking before, just make sure you put a little grease on it when you re install the converter

I say put her back in... btw, love the truck!!!

much better

I agree, don't k ow why I thought coast side was drive side lol... so to get things right all he needs to do is bring the ring gear in with the bearing adjusters correct?

disregard pinion depth, it's spot on! lol thought the coast side was the drive side....

I think it could use slight more pinion depth but it's pretty good, definitely needs more engagement though

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contact pattern is too close to the edge of the teeth

so since it's out what exactly do I need to do...shim the servo so it's solid?

well I put the engine in and ran the car, I adjusted the low reverse band out a 1/4 turn at a time with no change in the 2-3 shift due to a pump leak I pulled the trans. what I've been reading says that with a 2-3 shift overlap the front clutch piston springs are too weak and I need to either...

well it does have a kind of small cooler, but my dad's car runs the same setup and no leak on his...hmmm

^ thanks, I will bring my converter into work to get it checked out!

the converter hub isn't cracked, and the bushing looks in pretty good shape, the hub however isn't perfectly smooth....it has about 2 ridges I can barely feel with my fingernail

had a leak at the bell on my 727...replaced front pump seal, put a few more miles on it and it's leaking again..., so I pulled the pump and I'm going to put all new seals/gasket/and bushing in. anything else to look for while it's out?

ive heard of people re drilling them, i called dr. diff and ordered a set of bbp axles for the stock a body brakes. then all i did was had my stock drums re drilled that way i didnt have to go to a b body brake setup which is around .4" wider on each side

Yes when I bought the car the trans was fresh and apparently had a shift kit, all I did was pulled the pan and put the Reverse manual vb in

Thanks guys, I'll try the adjusters when the motors done and if all else fails I'll have to pull the pan and check it out, what I do know is there is no spring in it, when I put the vb in it said not to use the spring, previous owner did say it had a shift kit in it tho

While have my motor out replacing he cam, I have another issue to fix, I have a 727 behind the 383 with tci converter, cheetah reverse manual valve body, trans is fresh(used converter) now 1-2 shift is fine, and 2-3 is fine when you shift at wot, but when cruising the 2-3 shift feels like you...