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This thread is brilliant-nice work on the parts bin engineering and simplified fab. I'm also confident your 3/8" angle iron should suffice given the application. Angle iron is usually made from hot rolled carbon steel or something similar and most carbon steels have great fatigue life and...

I would assume you would prefer a European/German make of vehicle...(a) you're there (b) it's what you know...

And if that doesn't work, there are probably dozens of other types of vehicles from which you can pirate a console. Take a stroll through the interior forums...lots of folks have either taken them from other cars or made their own from MDF or in some cases even fabricated from fiberglass.

Cool-I'll be back down in Abilene here in a couple weeks.

I'm sure I missed it somewhere, but how much are you asking for the brackets?

I would think it's kind of a niche crowd you're looking to sell to...it seems like unless for resto reasons or lack of desire to swap to BBP, no one wants the small bolt narrow drums. Have you tried searching the classifieds? Where in Texas are you?

I paid about $300 or so shipped for a complete setup from a member on here, but I have yet to try and use them and they clearly need some cleaning and attention...but I didn't get a m/c or booster with my setup. Another seller on here sells a completely rebuilt and recon'd KH setup for...

Damn the luck... The good part is simply that either slider or pin type calipers are standard fare and people still make parts for them--I'm pretty sure even EBC makes pads for both applications and if you've never used them, they make very good pads...or at least they used to.

Agreed-there's no value in using any Mustang spindles after 1978 since they were all macpherson strut front suspensions. The amount of grief involved to use them would be a bridge too far in my opinion. I believed it to be a deal as well considering the quantity of serviceable and usable...

I know the pin types are not terribly popular, but there's a set in the classifieds...looks like it'll need rotors/bearings/etc but spindles, calipers, pins, and brackets are there. [FOR SALE] - DISC BRAKE SPINDLES calipers brackets hardware

I paid $300 shipped for a seller on here...he tetrised them into a small plywood box minus the control arms. If I do wind up using them, I'll still need to buy a set of pads, turn the rotors, and new hoses.

These are the replacement for the bell style, correct? EDIT: disregard--followed the link Karl provided--Thank you very much for the heads up--I believe I'll send this to my brother too...

I actually learned too--and that's a large share of why I'm here...I'm also dumb enough to succumb to the temptation of having a retarded online argument...so, I'm certainly not in a good position to call out anyone else...can we go on now?

He's showing you a simple setup that he sells...plain and simple. Without going into the math (hat tip, ntsqd), he's in business to make a profit. The simple single piston calipers are cheap to produce and market with likely a larger profit margin, and he can make bank off the simplicity of...

Nice parts Andy

Can I guess that you're using power brakes? From what I've read on here and elsewhere, using a larger bore increases pedal effort. I've read a few threads on here where people use either a 1" or 15/16" diameter MC...it increases pedal travel, but from the people who've done it, the feel is...

Cool-you plan to post up some more pix?

I'm good with manual drums so far...plan to go with the same setup as krazykuda on my '72 Scamp when I can actually get back to working on it. Nothing wrong with manual...simple and it works. Just have to match the parts correctly, and I'm pretty sure there are at least a couple dozen threads...

Organics tend to shed a ton of dust, wear is decent though and they're inexpensive. If you're planning on doing spirited driving, they can fade when hot. Semi-metallic don't fade as much, and the dust takes some effort to get off, but they usually grip pretty damn well and fade less when...

I have EBC greenstuff pads on my Mustang with 4 wheel discs...they're obviously better compared to OEM pads. They do shed some brake dust, but it comes off easily compared to stock. They fade less when warm, make less noise than ceramic, and chatter less than some semi-metallics I've used...

According to this thread, it's a 99% plug n play, but you'd have to shorten the driveshaft to fit the new rear...that makes sense if you're rocking a 7 1/4" http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=260731

LOL! Nice Otherwise, I'm pretty sure you'll be gtg as long as you get ALL the parts to bolt on your car. I can't answer for sure if the drag link/idler/pitman pieces will all go in, but the upper/lower control arms, spindles, brakes, etc should all go in without issue. I'll do some looking...

...will be using that method-nice work Rob.

Ouch! If they're getting that warm, you either need lay off the brakes or get a different rotor

Yes^^^ Other considerations are if tires are locking up, maybe there's too much weight transfer from the aft, or too much braking to the back compared to the front.

All that being said, I do admire the mods done to your Valiant

That's all fine and dandy, but while I understand your perspective, not everyone sees it the same way. And while others' "bolt-on kit car"s have nothing of value to you, well...they're not your car, so... Think about it this way...many folks want to have a cool old car and have an actual role...

...I thought you said yourself, it doesn't adjust pressure? And parse the verbiage how you'd like, but by adjusting the so-called knee point in an adjustable P/V, it alters the rate at which rear brake pressure is applied in comparison to the front brake pressure. Again, it's not actually...

Pretty cool device...but for many on here, an adjustable P/V is about a third the cost of the LBS. And while you're correct that sizing calipers is a much more appropriate way of biasing the brake pressure based on demands of the vehicle, again, most folks in this hobby are looking for...

...to expand on ntsqd's statement... http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves It talks about the knee point toward the bottom in "Proportioning valve selection". While it technically doesn't adjust the brake pressure as you assert...