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well if the strut rod bushings are wore out that will certainly affect castor and camber, if the bushings are in good shape and your still having a problem then upper control arm bushings a bent upper or lower ball joint will all have an effect on caster or camber so start looking for the faulty...

what awb car in the background? post a pic if its in my yard it is for sale...it's got to go

I have several reasons to sell the waggin, 1 I have no place to store any cars and barely enough shop space to work on them, need money to fix up the other toads around the yard before they rot into the ground, and some personal issues I can't discuss at this time, car can be sold as a roller...

check to see if the strut rod has been tightened to far or not far enough, playing with the length of that will bring the caster into specs

use the cherry picker to support the engine and jackstands under the frame

check the numbers stamped on the ends of the bars to make sure you got two different bars, there is an odd number and an even number, not sure which goes to which side but that's what you need to check

the clay will work well

you should have enough clearance that it never comes into contact with metal....if you look around the lower control arm pivot shaft on a 340 car you will see extra gusseting has been added at the factory where a slanty or 318 k frame do not have this...I have seen the lower control arm pivot...

well drilling the axels gits the studs way out there at 4.5" you gonna drill thr fronts to match? i'd be takin a good look at stuff before goin bigger than 4.5......cant hurt to look befor ya leap....just sayinnnnnn

make some custom front spring mounts and add some shackles.and shock extensions

never sieze compound

set all tire pressures first and rock the car each time you adjust....

I find a stance I like then measure from the wheel lips to the ground and adjust till the fronts match with driver weight in the car, then do the alighnment....hope thats helpful

340 k member will bring a Lil more

I dont have a press, this method has worked well for me, just dont have room here for a press

getting the rubber out of the lca's can be a bear, i just pour a Lil charcoal lighter fluid on em and light......after they go out you can pick the rubber out pretty easily with a screwdriver

they look like they are pressed into the control arm properly, need to squeeze the top of the control arm back together so they will fit into the holders, common problem, start with the control arm at the top of the holders and tap down one side then as it gets a lil crooked you will be able to...

I spent the time looking for the centerlink for him then measuring things out tryin to help.....now I'm done.....

same thing he was told repeatedly and has decided that aftermarket parts sellers absolutely know what they are doing...the sleeve length don't mean squat...the length from center to center of the tie rod ends is what needs to be considered.....if those are factory split tie rod sleeves with lock...

show us the part and the tape measure in its completeness, this pic shows nothing but an incompetent and a tool that is dysfunctional in that persons hands SHOW US A PIC WITH THE WHOLE DRAG LINK AND THE TAPE MEASURE AT THE SAME TIME GEE NEE USS!!!

well now you are showing a mopar tie rod sleeve with proper clamps, if the one in this picture is the one on your car and you have added adjustment locks but not the correct clamps then that would show why you cant get the tie rods short enough due to the thickness of the lock nut you...

the tie rod ends should be approxamately 12 and 1/8" from center to center for early a and late a body centerlink 22 1/4" from center to center for tie rods....them aftermarket tie rod ends are gonne be the culprit.... and I will add in his defence the 73 center link does measure 23...

I use it on some stuff but finding 3/16 drill bit and air chisel faster but nuthin beats the plasma cutter on the ones ya cant get with a drill

I finally got caught up and have the torsion bar crossmember out for you :) will be a nice replacement part for yours

sale pending on them.

Large

I have this pair for sale they are used 220$ shipped not sure what brand anybody know???

I got the k frame bolts, the front and rear bumper bolts and the latches and strikers pulled and boxed for you, send me a pm if you need anything else..Wagg's

ona duster,demon or 67-69 barracuda it's practical due to the large wheel opening, with stock width wheels it may be practical on your car also, if you have a pair of rear wheels you wish to use on your car bolt them to the b body rear and measure and see if it is gonna work for your application

these plates shown by curly's racecars would be a good addition to a solid crossmember but add them front and rear and closer to the torsion bar anchor so as to be welded to the crossmember and the torsion bar anchor, in other words leave a gap and weld to the crossmember then make a second pass...