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I have good patch sections

Keep this in mind. Dave Dudek runs 9.80s with his stock tire 69 Hemi Roadrunner on standard, low performance 383 Satellite leaf springs. What you do with the shocks, tires and front suspension is far more important than which leaf setup you choose.

No, the 7.25 is not a C Clip rear. Axles bolt in like an 8.75

Currently sold out, but check with me in a week or two

I've got them for $25 each, plus shipping

I have a couple of good, used std. boxes on hand. $125 shipped. Let me know if you can use one

Unless you're going nuts with full on handling upgrades and wide sticky rubber all the way around, the 16:1 box is a waste. All you'll accomplish is making it difficult to park.

No need to punch anything out. They don't penetrate the inner shaft. They are just four globs of nylon

The pinion snubber converts torque to a downward motion of the axle, which plants the tires. Short shocks won't allow full drop out of the axle..stopping it abruptly just as the weight of the car begins to transfer rearward.

Your pinion snubbed can't do it's job without longer shocks, regardless of which springs use.

You called? What year engine..aluminum or cast iron water pump?

Done

If the rest of the rail is solid, you're best bet is to just replace that section..less overall disturbance of the unibody. I can sell you that section for $60 plus shipping. Let me know if you can use it.

As a Drag Racer type, I can't possibly fathom why anybody would do this sort of stuff to their cars...BUT! I've got a pair of LCA's with the plates welded in already. New bushings, greasable pins, real nice condition. Also have super thick strut rods and solid steering turnbuckles. Take $300 for...

I have good, used uppers for $25 plus shipping. Message me if you can use one

I have those early style arms for $25 each, plus shipping

[FOR SALE] - 1967-72 Front Sway Bar

Yup, interference thread. I'll send one along with that wiper arm

Ah, but mine are not made from China metal!

I have good used for $10 a pop.

You have your era's confused. 65-66 Match Bash cars ran 8.75s and leafs/snubber almost exclusively. Things like QCs didn't show up in Funny Cars until 69 or so, and even then there were still a good number of cars using the 8.75. In T/F, the 8.75 hung around until 73/74. BTW, most 8.75s used...

Yes, I realize that people run these bars on 8.75s all the the time, and most get away with it. Lighter car, soft converter, not dead hooking. Lots of factors come into play. But, consider this. High horsepower, big tire cars that still use the 8.75 along with ladder bars or 4 link always...

I'm probably the only one who is going to tell you this, but Caltracs on an 8.75 is a very bad idea. The sheet metal housing is intended to work with a pinion snubber. The center has zero support without one. Low HP, street tires, very light car and you'll get away with it for a while. Hook...

Bolt in and floor fitted frame connectors are apples and oranges. Bolt in are intended to spread the push from the rear axle forward, taking some of the load off the rocker panels. If you are drag racing a moderately high power car with slicks and otherwise stock unibody, they are fine as is...

I'll be set up in July to do that sort of work, in Murfreesboro

From 1960-76, all intercgange

If the Slant car had A/C, they are the same bars

I have one nice passenger side rail on hand right now. $150 plus $30 for shipping. Let me know if you can use it.

8.75 needs a pinion snubber. Sheet steel housing has no way to absorb torque without distorting or bending. Pinion snubber cancels this out 100%.

Yup, one of the few parts that fits all years and models, exactly.