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No, they actually do a lot! We're planing on doing a video on the subject soon for our Uncle Tony's Garage YouTube channel.

It does matter, a set that is played out will not release that stored energy the way a good set will. Generally, you can tell how healthy a bar is by how straight it is. Bow=dead I have them for sale if you need them.

Anything is possible, but to experience no-load detonation, something..engine temp, fuel quality, ignition timing..has to be very seriously out of the happy zone

Redirect Notice Might want to read this and let it sink in for a bit

I have said it a hundred times. When I stopped messing with Top Fuelers in 98, we were using SuperMag 5s...and on top of those mags was a big, honkin set of breaker points. Why? Because under the stress and violence of Blown Nitro, there was only one foolproof, reliable way to trigger that...

This, exactly!

My procedure has always been to stop in the water.. First gear, and give the gas a quick whack to wet the whole tire and move the car out of the puddle by a foot or two. Stop completely..still in first, break the tires and as soon as I hear the motor come up strong, shift to second, wait a...

Don't take your foot off the gas until you feel it shift

727 and 904 are equally prone to rolling the sprag. Safest to start burnouts in second gear, but if need be, you can break the tires in first and then immediately upshift

Don't dead hook it, and you'll never have an issue

The best shock on the front of your stock suspension Mopar is no shock. Always has been, always will be. Come as close to that as you can and you're golden

I'll just leave this here...

Average price back then hovered around 18-$20 a gallon, but spiked one time to twice that. How much now? I don't want to know until after I'm done building this new car.

Yknow, that's the one and only thing that has kept me from diving into the nitrous thing hard. Shortages, real and fabricated, suppliers going tits-up when you need them the most. Sudden price spikes. I went through all this with nitromethane back in the 90ss I wonder what other readily avaible...

I know its Brand X, but nothing looks badder than this

Never said anything about jacking up the rear. If you look at Gassers of the late 60s early 70s they were actually slammed at rear with the wheel wells radiused almost all the way to the top of the quarters. There's also a matter of practicality. On my current Grudge build, I have the wheel...

You mean, like the era these cars came from?

Let those suckers hang out rude and crude. Everything looks tougher with wide meat hanging out the side by an inch or two

Radius wheel openings rule!

I ran with a bunch of east coast and Midwest cars back in the 80s and 90s. Partnered on a T/F car for a while, had my own F/A. Building a Blown Nitro Belvedere Grudge car now

Not only is it legal, but in some cases, actually required. SFI spec for area where front roll bar hoop joins upper frame rail on F/C and Dragsters chassis requires a splice with a rosette welded inner tube.

They were absolutely meant to work together. SS springs were designed around a snubber type of system. Things like slappers and Caltraks are fine for use in press-tube style axles, but on an 8.75 are a REALLY bad idea, even on one that is back braced. The front of the housing that supports...

A snubber is an anti rotation device that just happens to double as a traction aid. With an 8.75, which is a sheet metal housing, it IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY!!! A PROPERLY adjusted snubber relieves the housing of ALL torsional load. This is where the big taboo about Mopars and Slapper style bars...

All IRS cars squat like that on the starting line. With no rigid axle tubes, the torque reaction at the axles tries to push the hubs up into the car. Gravity fills the void and the car squats. Squatting the tire is different. Cars with little or no suspension rely on a hard initial hit which...

I was talking tire squat, not body.

Right..the Caltracs completely eliminate axle rotation. With the combination of Caltracs and the sliders, he has basically eliminated the rear suspension all together..which is fine if you have enough horsepower and perhaps a trans brake to hit the tire hard enough to squat it.

The Slider allows the spring to move fore and aft, but it does not add actual length to the spring the way the shackle does.

Obviously working just fine...along with the Ladder Bars or Caltracks he also has. The sliders can work as long as the rear axle is kept from any sort of rotation.

Ok, here is what you're missing with that slider vs shackle thing. When the spring arches, it becomes shorter eye to eye. The shackle is actually an extension of the spring that allows it to become shorter while still being anchored. The shackle is adding three or so inches of spring...

I've been around Mopar Street and Race cars for nearly 40 years, and have NEVER seen any sort of practical application for rear shackle "sliders". There are sliders that have a practical use when using ladder bars with leaf springs...the purpose being to avoid binding when the two forward pivot...