Opinions on ignition systems

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Tried them all. The kick for me was hiding GM stuff in my Mopar, the Gold ignition worked best for me till I stumbled on the III unit. It just works when used with the correct plug wires and coil and bypassed ballast. Nice package and my 383 has never been happier! Me as well for hiding all of it.

The worst choice I ever tried was the Hy-Fire. One 7k romp and it was toast! Twice I tried with the same result, went back to Gold, till I found the Pertronix.
 
Tried them all. The kick for me was hiding GM stuff in my Mopar, the Gold ignition worked best for me till I stumbled on the III unit. It just works when used with the correct plug wires and coil and bypassed ballast. Nice package and my 383 has never been happier! Me as well for hiding all of it.

The worst choice I ever tried was the Hy-Fire. One 7k romp and it was toast! Twice I tried with the same result, went back to Gold, till I found the Pertronix.


What Hy-Fire was it and what happened to it?
 
What Hy-Fire was it and what happened to it?

Not sure what the part number was but "Super Shops" sold in the late 80's for Mopar electronic dizzy's seems a 7?. Car was fine till 6k or more then it started missing as soon after! Two in a row and your out!
 
Tried them all. The kick for me was hiding GM stuff in my Mopar, the Gold ignition worked best for me till I stumbled on the III unit. It just works when used with the correct plug wires and coil and bypassed ballast. Nice package and my 383 has never been happier! Me as well for hiding all of it.

The worst choice I ever tried was the Hy-Fire. One 7k romp and it was toast! Twice I tried with the same result, went back to Gold, till I found the Pertronix.
You by bypassed the ballast resistor with the protronix
 
You by bypassed the ballast resistor with the protronix

The III requires it. I want a complete stock look so the ballast is jumpered from behind. You can not notice unless you pull the distributor cap and look inside.
 

Do you run Points?

Electronic is superior in timing, starting, spark energy.

Preference and opinion not to see gaudy boxes and crap. Hidden simplicity that works.
 
Do you run Points?

Electronic is superior in timing, starting, spark energy.

Preference and opinion not to see gaudy boxes and crap. Hidden simplicity that works.

my mistake,i didn't realize you were talking about points,i was thinking stock mopar electronic ignition
 
So the term "beefing it up" doesn't promote a hurricane of red flags in your head?

I did read that in the OP's post. But...he did say he was going to be "beefing it up" some time in the future so that's why I said 2 step and rev limiter.

Been around long enough to know you guys change your minds like I change my drawers.

Well, more than that but you get the point. Plus, it was pretty early in the A.M. when I posted.
 
Truth be told I had a complete stock ignition with a cheap parts store distributor and an old Accel coil and then change to a complete new MSD setup top to bottom and did not pick up not even a .001 in the quarter mile. You may add that 2 cents to your decision.
This, exactly!
 
I have said it a hundred times. When I stopped messing with Top Fuelers in 98, we were using SuperMag 5s...and on top of those mags was a big, honkin set of breaker points. Why? Because under the stress and violence of Blown Nitro, there was only one foolproof, reliable way to trigger that 70,000 volt spark..points!
 
I have said it a hundred times. When I stopped messing with Top Fuelers in 98, we were using SuperMag 5s...and on top of those mags was a big, honkin set of breaker points. Why? Because under the stress and violence of Blown Nitro, there was only one foolproof, reliable way to trigger that 70,000 volt spark..points!


Yep. I ran a Super Mag IV in my car. Simple and easy.

The MSD mags have a points box. I've never opened one up so I'm not sure what's in there.
 
So the term "beefing it up" doesn't promote a hurricane of red flags in your head?

Nope. No red flags. If I flipped my beanie every time someone misused, mispronounced or otherwise butchered a term I'd be in the funny farm.

Things like dry slump, or conversating, or axe me...there are plenty of them. I gave up on that years ago.

See, I'm telling you I have mellowed way out. And did it without ANY hippie lettuce. Or alcohol since 1993.
 
I'm a PerTronix dealer. For the guys that said there isn't a PerTronix kit for the Mopar electronic distributors, there is. It's # CH-181 for the original Ignitor, and 9CH-181 for the Ignitor II. I've installed bunch of the 9CH-181's and they work great.

They don't have an Ignitor III kit for the electronic distributor at this time, but they do have a stock appearing small block distributor available with the Ignitor III in it. I haven't brought one in yet, but it's part # D7144600. They don't have a B/RB version out yet.
 
I'm a PerTronix dealer. For the guys that said there isn't a PerTronix kit for the Mopar electronic distributors, there is. It's # CH-181 for the original Ignitor, and 9CH-181 for the Ignitor II. I've installed bunch of the 9CH-181's and they work great.

They don't have an Ignitor III kit for the electronic distributor at this time, but they do have a stock appearing small block distributor available with the Ignitor III in it. I haven't brought one in yet, but it's part # D7144600. They don't have a B/RB version out yet.

I wanted III so went to a point type Mopar dizzy. No issues, but wish it would fit in the Mopar electronic dizzy cause it is easier to use the FBO plate to limit total advance. Just had to weld the slots to get where I needed. Cat's meow would be if it was available for the original Prestolite DP, then a real authentic look could have been achieved. I do keep the complete point breaker plate in the glove box just in case something fails and can insert a get home fix.

The complete Pertronix dizzy units I have seen pictured on this site have a really crappy mechanical advance set-up that was hokey at best, but I would venture to say " Pure Crap"! They really need to make a few more drop in units that fit the various Mopar dizzy's.
 
I wanted III so went to a point type Mopar dizzy. No issues, but wish it would fit in the Mopar electronic dizzy cause it is easier to use the FBO plate to limit total advance. Just had to weld the slots to get where I needed. Cat's meow would be if it was available for the original Prestolite DP, then a real authentic look could have been achieved. I do keep the complete point breaker plate in the glove box just in case something fails and can insert a get home fix.

The complete Pertronix dizzy units I have seen pictured on this site have a really crappy mechanical advance set-up that was hokey at best, but I would venture to say " Pure Crap"! They really need to make a few more drop in units that fit the various Mopar dizzy's.
There is a kit for the early prestolite in the 273's. The 340 dual points may be different. Let me look.
 
69 383 auto they do not have a III for the factory Presolite DP.

They may have a I or II but did not check. The info on SB motors is good though!
 
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Course the market for original 69 383 auto cars that used that dizzy would be small so I understand why they would not spend the time and money to make it!
 
Maybe that mint Mallory dual point for a B motor I have sitting in my garage is worth something afer all....lol
 
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