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No, a 750 would be stupid...a 390-500 CFM carb would be smart. And no, carbon won't do nearly as much damage to an engine as piston crushing detonation will...like when a cheap Chinese rotor vaporizes under a voltage load twice what it was designed to handle. I'm sure you're familiar with that...

People have been using Holley's for Blow through applications since the 60s...and a carb has zero idea what kind of engine it's bolted to. Whoever you're talking to is either an idiot or trying to pick your pocket. You know, the usual

So what you're saying is that no carb can be used in a blow through?

One other thing...and you may as well start scratching your head now. In an early A, the engine sits 2 inches closer to the core support than on 67-up cars. The Torquestorm kit leaves zero and I mean ZERO room for any kind of fan in that space in front of the engine. If you locate the...

The only problem with running an Edelbrock/Carter carb on a blow through application is the accelerator pump. Not the pump itself, but the way it's configured. Under boost with the bowls pressurized, the pump shaft would become a leaking point. In the old days when they were used with...

One does not build a Slant in order to rotate the Earth. One builds a Slant because they are difficult and challenging. It's a thinking/fabricating man's game. Not everyone is equipped to play

I did the install on one of these kits back over the summer. Very nice package..complete and high quality. The only real issue, is that when you install one on an early A, there is zero room between the engine and radiator for any sort of cooling fan. Depending on the car, you've either got...

Once up to operating temp, there is more than enough radiant heat from the cylinder head to do the job. No theory, it's fact. I've run them around that way

Tell you what..disconnect the choke on one of these things, and let it warm just enough so that you can power brake it and launch. Then, drive it around for ten minutes and repeat. The seat of the pants difference is profound

Volare with Duster package

. There are exceptions to every rule, Charlie, you know that. In a street driven Slant with a normal length intake manifold and headers, there is much more than enough radiant heat to keep things running normally.

So the benefits of a cooler intake charge are pure conspiracy theory...and all these fresh air systems and scoops are nothing but a ploy to dupe the masses. Intercoolers must be pure fiction. So, tell us, Dan..exactly how many race cars have you built or tuned? Dyno time? How much time have...

Eliminating that heat riser is a quick, free 10-15 horsepower. Radiant heat is all that manifold needs to be effective

HEI is definitely not part of my plan. I've tested back to back every ignition you can name and unless your points ignition is badly out of tune, you'll see zero difference in performance. The simplicity and rock solid reliability of points works for me.

Really nice ride! All of my daily drivers are vintage Mopar. One that gets the most use is a 64 Dart with a 170 that has way over a million miles on it. If you're new to the concept of driving one of these things every day, here are three tips you'll thank me for down the road. Use Shell...

I'm just another ******** hustling parts on the internet to keep from starving to death, but thanks for the thought. The hottie got mad at me today for referring to her as "the old Battle Ax"..they get so sensitive in their old age...

You're wrong about it being hard to prove. I've done it myself by measuring stall speed before and after swapping short blocks. I did it with a 383 Roadrunner. Same top end, but a replacement short block that I reversed the pistons in..no other changes. Picked up 300+ rpm against the brake...

OK, this is how I illustrated the effect of negative offset to a friend I was attempting to explain it to in my shop one day. Take a bucket and turn it upside down on the floor. Take a broomstick handle and place it center of the bucket. Apply about ten pounds of effort, pushing straight...

They are not offset the "wrong way", they are offset in the name of keeping the engine dead quiet in all operating conditions. The engineers did that at the sacrifice of a few crank angle degrees. Turning them around uses that in your favor, with the possibility of a little piston slap when cold.

You are wrong about reversing the pistons. It has nothing to do with friction and everything to do with getting the rod to lean into the direction of crank rotation sooner in the power stroke. On some engines this particular trick will really wake up off-idle performance. It has the same...

First off. I don't work on any Top Fuel teams. My background with fuel cars is as a builder and tuner. One of the key aspects of that is bottom end geometry..cause and effect. I wrote a series of articles in SSDI in the middle 90s on basic nitro tuning that formed a big part of the foundation...

...think that one through, man. If you've opened the bore for bigger pistons, you would have automatically opened the deck for bigger valves, no?

Why go through all the insanity of offset bores when you can accomplish the same thing by just reverse offsetting the wrist pins. Which, BTW works well on all Chrysler engines, but I have found, really perks up a 225.

The 225 is already too much of a "stroker" as is. Bore is what the thing needs..desperately

Rusty, that ******* idiot was referring to me. Ignoring the fact that I have well established credentials in everything from Top Fuel through Stock Eliminator...and everything in between..he seems to think some tinkerers on .org have some magic formula that transcends all other internal...

Yes, I stand corrected.

At the risk of oversimplifying things...some engines are born with shorter rods than others, and can benefit from a longer one. THE 225 IS NOT ONE OF THEM...period, end of debate. The engine is insanely oversquare with not nearly enough piston surface area to adequately work the crank without...

All the scientists are going to jump in and tell me I'm wrong..but putting a longer rod in a 225 is the absolute worst thing you can do to the damn thing. It needs all the mechanical leverage it can get, and taking that away via a longer connecting rod will crush the tiny bit of bottom end...

I would love to help you out, but currently that is the only one I have on hand. I need to hold onto it