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Moly lube. The isky stuff is what I use

I didn't even think of the factory rockers.

No! That is most likely an oiling hole. The jam nut is what locks the adjuster

Could you fab a thin aluminum heat shield that bolts to the valve cover bolts

Good observation! Pcv valve on one side and breather on other!

Yup! I'm a big block guy but they work great for me. I use light bead of silicon on valve cover side. Super light and spread thin and even with my finger. Then same on head side with white lithium grease. That way gasket glued to valve cover and comes off head easy. Never tear that way and reusable

I like the moroso steel core crush proof gaskets

If running iron heads he won't want 10.5:1 compression on the street. That is why I recommended 9ish:1 for pump gas. This allows him to have a safe combo that won't detonate with a bad tune. Most novice guys are just learning to tune with timing and carbs. That's why I gave him a good starting...

Got a part#?

This is pretty advanced advice to be giving a guy that is posting on a forum asking how to build his first performance engine. The factory got by with far less invested into these engines. Telling this guy to order a custom cam is not great advise. He is looking for a recipe for success.

For a 400hp 340 build I would use stock crank and rods. Have rods resized and run good bolts. Extra mile on rods would be flash ground and shot peened. Have deck surface cleaned up and squared. My big block took .005 to clean up. I would run a forged budget piston and aim for 9.2-9.6:1...

Yeah that sounds fishy also. It would like 35-38 I bet

Cam installed at 104 sounds goofy! I would think 106 would be more like it.

What size carb? What about exhaust. I can see other performance bottle necks before intake. What is compression ratio? Torgue converter and rear gear really need to match this combo to get the most out of it. If it where mine: I'd want 3.91 or bigger rear gear and 3500+ stall.

Cam specs? Where is it installed at?

Leak down will tell the tale

My new mill is big block but I am running stock caps with studs and girdle. My builder thinks they are worth while and it's a small expense comparatively speaking. My rotating assembly was 4K so what's another 500 to add piece of mind if anything.

I am spending a metric ton of money to join the club with my new 470" build! Have high hopes!

I know a .500ish lift works with a valve spring swap. Id call Hughes. They know the answer to all your questions

It is all about the combo! A tunnel ram is a purpose built race piece. It works best with high compression, large cam, headers with free flowing exhaust, big stall converter and tall gears. That being said making it work on the street with a very mild engine is going to be a compromise. It can...

Timing! Please tell us the curve? Cam specs? My car would burn your eyes outta your head at 15 degree initial. I thought that was aggressive. I was coached and ended up at 26 initial. The car fires up with a flick of the keys. Idles nice and is crisper then a Doritos chip. I have a big cam and...

Set of 3.91 rear gear would wake it up! What about exhaust? Dougs or Tti headers and there 2 1/2 exhaust with either h or x pipe would be an easy 25-30 hp.

What rear gear ratio? Torque converter stall speed?

but if you run a full exhaust with mufflers you create back pressure back into the engine.

professional products has had quite a few quality problems. i purchased one and sent it back before i even installed it.

installing the cam and degree the cam are two different operations. the first thing that jumps out at me is the marks on the timing gears. the cam gear should be at 6 o'clock and the crank gear should be at the 12 o'clock position. I would start with this. also i would verify the top dead center...

what fuel pump? 5/16 or 3/8 fuel line? if its a factory manual fuel pump it could be running out of fuel.

I use bosch filters on everything. still made in AMERICA!!! even the K&N stuff is going china.