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I have the summit ones on my 700hp 470 built. My car never hooks on the street so I can’t vouch for power gains but they do sound bad ***!

You want loud? Dynamax race bullits

I have had the 1-3/4" primary tube TTI headers on my big block dart for a few years now. I have been gradually stepping up the horsepower and am now at the point where the small primary headers are the bottle neck. SO...........I ordered a set of the 2" to 2-1/8" step headers from TTI. I also...

i run them on my car and hardly ever close them. I have had more compliments then i can count about how good my car sounds. the cam shaft makes all the difference.

I'm sure it sounds fantastic but it has been proven that a little bit of back pressure builds torque. As for open headers, merge collectors and short extensions 11-18" long have also proven to increase hp.

3" is way to big for a 318. 2 1/2 duel is even pushing it for a hopped up 318. 2-1/4 would yield better performance

before you go pulling anything id make sure ALL YOUR HEADER BOLTS ARE IN! id bolt them up with the gaskets and torque them evenly. id also anchor the engine mounts. did you make sure the engine is offset the correct amount to the passenger side? Is the transmission mounted to the cross...

I am the complete polar opposite! If my car looks fast it better be able to back it up. I love an old dirt bag car at the track that you expect to run 13's then it runs 10's. I love the guys that show up with the big chrome engine with duel 4's or a tunnel ram then the car pukes off the line...

you can pick up a mini starter from napa or any other shop. ask for a starter from a early 90's small block dakota. i think mine was $59

mine started to make a little noise and upon investigation i noticed that one of the bolts that holds the motor onto the butterfly housing had vibrated out. i put new bolts in with lock tight and good as new.

i have had the schumacker headers on my 383 in my 67 dart when i first built it. i could get them in and out with the standard mini starter in place. i just pulled the steering column out and they dropped right in. no clearance probs at all. i sold them and went with the TTI full length headers...

if your exhaust is done well you will never have to worry about it. my exhaust is a 3" tti kit. my exhaust sits up higher then the rest of my under carriage. you can see in my first pic how tight to the floor it is. I have never had anything on my car scrape yet and my car sits much lower then most.

and yes i have frame ties. HUGE ONES. they are 3x3" i have all kinds of room. i dont think they are stupid. in fact everyone that sees/hears my car in person think they are awesome.

you can dissasemble the flappers unless you grind off the nuts and bolts that hold the flapper onto the shaft. the factory galls the ends so the nuts wont fall off. its a simple matter of cutting off the y-pipe flange. clocking it correctly and re welding. took me 15 min. mine are tucked up...

I have same setup. I cut the flange off the y-pipe and clocked it correctly.

i got 40 series flows dumping in front of the rear diff and if you put your lady in the back seat while driving you can forget the drone and worry about cleaning the seats.

you built a 408 and soon as you get used to that your gonna want more. i always build for future improvement. go 3" and be ready for the future. these cars are load and obnoxious. thats why we love em.

my 383 dart. stock bottom end rebuild. solid mech. lifter cam. [email protected]. eddy heads, m1 intake full tti exhaust. http://youtu.be/DKWDPngenqE http://youtu.be/aLTuGFWyDuw http://youtu.be/ovfE81ZxH2k?t=2m4s

headers are about the best thing you can do to a stock 318. they dont rob mpg and increase hp. with pretty much any full length header and a decent flowing 2-2 1/4" duel exhaust i would bet its worth 20hp over stock manifolds. then when you step up the cam and intake/carb it will all compliment...

well, i have the exhaust cut outs on my ride and i run them open all the time. my car sounds down right nasty. http://youtu.be/aLTuGFWyDuw?t=2m4s http://youtu.be/ovfE81ZxH2k?t=2m55s

i would shim up the engine before i took a hammer to anything. a hammer to brand new expensive headers would be my last resort. might not even need shims. you could loosen the motor mounts at the k frame and then push up on the one side of the engine with some creative jacking. could slide the...

i would shim up the motor 1/4".

i have the 3" tti x-pipe set up into flows. i think it sounds pretty good. http://youtu.be/aLTuGFWyDuw

on mine i did half inch pieces at a time. i also ended up triming a bit off the female end of that same joint also. its just gonna take some effort. cut some check it and then cut more if needed. if you get pissed off at it walk away for a bit. they really are great systems. they just take some...

where the first slip joint is going into the x-pipe is where your gonna need to trim. the pipes that slide into that joint need to be shortened. they will slide farther into the x-pipe and it will narrow up the pipes. your gonna have to trim the tube that goes into the slip joint just past...

your gonna have to do a little bit of trimming. its not an exact fit. it took me and evening to do mine. i put dumps in also. just gotta trim a bit. test fit and trim some more. overall i was very impressed with the quality.

RAY 2446415 this one is $67. I bet the one you called is giving you the core charge with it. I would just go to the local pick and pull to get a core. hell i gave them an old starter, was one of the old school big ones.

ya "MINI STARTER" is just slang for the smaller starters. there are many manufacturers out there. you can spend hundreds on them if you want but they are very easy to find and cheap. i just went in and told em i had a 95 dakota pick up with a 318 in it.

yup, these starters will fit everything, hemi, rb, r, la, magnum and even the ol slants. got mine at the local crapa auto parts. cost me $57 and it has a life time warranty. so if the headers bake it i just slap in on the counter and get me a new one.

i didnt get the full system out the back. i got mine dumped in front of the housing. i already had the muffs. they were $75 ea. when i bought them new even at $586 with out muffs is a deal for a kit that is super high quality. bolts in and FITS like it should. not to mention i bet its hard to...