08 charger dash lights cutting out

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys

my winter beater is an 08 dodge charger and lately the dash lights seem to cut out
I tried the "gauge reset" thingy but that didn't do nuttin
(just the back lighting for the four gauges)

I would guess its a matter of a loose connection but I cant fit my big head behind the dash

anyone have any advice on this?
 
Find someone with a good scanner , check for codes in the car , an autel scanner will do an all system scan , then go from there ,snap on scanner also probably head light switch
 
I may be way off base here, but my 02 trep dash lights freak out when the dimmer knob is near the max intensity detent.
 
Biff said:
Find someone with a good scanner , check for codes in the car , an autel scanner will do an all system scan , then go from there ,snap on scanner also probably head light switch
Click to expand...

you can actually scan more then emission codes now?
that's cool, ill look into that

rustycowll69 said:
I may be way off base here, but my 02 trep dash lights freak out when the dimmer knob is near the max intensity detent.
Click to expand...

I tried messing with the settings on the dimmer, but once they go out, they are out

i might pull it apart when i get it back home and see if i cant clean the switch itself
 
diymirage said:
you can actually scan more then emission codes now?
that's cool, ill look into that



I tried messing with the settings on the dimmer, but once they go out, they are out

i might pull it apart when i get it back home and see if i cant clean the switch itself
Click to expand...
Yes, you can scan a lot more than emission codes.
But, as for your problem, I'm willing to bet it's one of two things.
The instrument cluster or the TIPM.
Smart money is on the TIPM. They're ****.
Any other things going on that you've noticed that aren't related?
 
gunbunny said:
Yes, you can scan a lot more than emission codes.
But, as for your problem, I'm willing to bet it's one of two things.
The instrument cluster or the TIPM.
Smart money is on the TIPM. They're ****.
Any other things going on that you've noticed that aren't related?
Click to expand...
Nope, at least not that I noticed
Just the backlighting to the gauges
(Which makes me think it is maybe the switch)

So, what is the TIPM?
 
Give up trying to get your head under that dash. Its too fat. Cluster comes out the front. at least 99%of all instrument clusters do now.
i will check with my instrument cluster guy and see if its a common problem.
 
I checked his website, nothing mentioned.
The backlight might be flourescent, prone to failure.
I would pull cluster, and look at circuit board for cracking around solder joints. Perhaps just unplugging the cluster is enough to clean connectors.
 
A scan tool will do nothing in regards to the dash lights/dimmer. If its an intermittent switch, the dimmer would work at some position like full bright.
Anytime i have seen issues like this, its the cluster. Unless wiggling switch or connector changes the condition.
 
Thanks guys

What drives me crazy is that I will get in and the lights will work for a minute or two
Then die, and stay out for the rest of the trip

The next day, it does the same thing
 
diymirage said:
Nope, at least not that I noticed
Just the backlighting to the gauges
(Which makes me think it is maybe the switch)

So, what is the TIPM?
Click to expand...
Totally Integrated Power Module
It's located under the hood and is often called a PDC (power distribution center) or the outer fuse box.
The fact that your saying the light will come on, but then go out after a few moments reinforces my suspicion of the TIPM.
If you're lucky, its a loose connection.
But when you turn the switch on, a signal is sent to the TIPM that tells the light to turn on.
A TIPM is a horrible, horrible design that we can thank the Germans for.
If it is a TIPM, the problems will be begin to appear like a domino effect. Usually the fuel pump relay circuit goes and you'll have an intermittent no start situation.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I checked his website, nothing mentioned.
The backlight might be flourescent, prone to failure.
I would pull cluster, and look at circuit board for cracking around solder joints. Perhaps just unplugging the cluster is enough to clean connectors.
Click to expand...
I had same problem on my 05 Magnum. From what I recall there is very little you can see or service even with it out. Definitely nothing from under dash. Gotta pull the cluster. There are no bulbs. The whole surface glows (or not). Started as intermittent and got worse till it was off more than on... Changed the switch. No improvement. Changed the cluster. Problem solved. A year later my RPM gauge started going intermittent and died. Never tried to fix that...
 
Aren’t computers awsome ! :realcrazy: All for less wires in a car , I laugh when I work on the 68 like 7 wires to the rear woooo, all the new stuff like 700 but we’re better for it right :wtf:
 
150 lbs of wiring, where a classic car wiring harness is around 10 lbs.
my 49 fargo is less than that.
Three wires to rear of truck,one ends under cab for fuel sender.
 
Not to hijack, but have an 06 German Daytona with intermittent parasitic no start. Replaced the stack. No change. Now put headlights to OFF instead of DRL, also removed the fuse for the rear seat DVD as it sounded one time like it was trying to eject a disc.
Seems to be starting now. Concerns about manufacturer not carrying harness and other electric components after vehicle is 10 years old. Thanks and I’ll be watching this thread.

980F686B-58B7-4005-966F-14E3C4C08C2F.jpeg
 
well, I will have the car to play with tomorrow

ill turn the lights on, and as soon as the dash light cut out ill kill them
then see what happens after 5 minutes or so
if @Tooljunkie is correct that its a connection heating up and cutting out this should allow it to cool down and come back on, right?

then ill start pulling fuses and connectors under the hood and slathering them with dielectric grease (and look for signs of bad connections, baked terminals or corrosion)

if that doesn't do it, ill see if I can trade her in for a hello kitty charger...do they come in AWD?
 
diymirage said:
well, I will have the car to play with tomorrow

ill turn the lights on, and as soon as the dash light cut out ill kill them
then see what happens after 5 minutes or so
if @Tooljunkie is correct that its a connection heating up and cutting out this should allow it to cool down and come back on, right?

then ill start pulling fuses and connectors under the hood and slathering them with dielectric grease (and look for signs of bad connections, baked terminals or corrosion)

if that doesn't do it, ill see if I can trade her in for a hello kitty charger...do they come in AWD?
Click to expand...
Power to dash lights also supplies all the other little bits that are illuminated,power points,heater control backlights. I bet they all stay on. It will be the board on the cluster.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Power to dash lights also supplies all the other little bits that are illuminated,power points,heater control backlights. I bet they all stay on. It will be the board on the cluster.
Click to expand...

yup, pretty sure everything else stays on

if it turns out the board is fried, im just gonna put a few LED spotlights on the column
 
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