1.03 torsion bars vs Dougs headers

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Mojoe9955

Mojoe9955

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This combination was super close...even closer now with my rear/ spring mods. Seems instead of occasionally banging while driving it seems somewhat continuous. I don't really to want to ding the headers as they were pretty hard to get in there so I don't want to take them out. I also don't want them looking all banged up. Heat them with the torch and massage them some while in the car? Perhaps shim up the motor some? It's so tight, it requires raisng the motor up to clear the hex to get the bars in or out. The drivers side is the worst with 3 out of 4 tubes touching, while the driver seems to have one.
Any ideas?

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Have you checked the motor mounts to make sure they are not completely flattened out? You might try putting a couple of washers between the mounts and the towers to raise the engine just a bit.
 
They are newer, but they do look pretty thin. Is there a thicker small block mount. It looks easy enough to start with a couple washers or a plate if the bolt is long enough.

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On my buddy's 72 Duster, we put a 1/4 piece of flat metal under each mount and another between the transmission tail housing and mount. This gave us enough clearance so the headers didn't contact the bars. This may or may not work for you, it's just a suggestion.
 
I had the same combo and the same problem. I use poly mounts (they're taller) and still needed to shim. I took the t bars out, heated the header tubes and put a deep socket on an extension sideways on the tube and hammered them where the t bar contact was. They're close but not touching. There's a factory dimension from the crank centre to the k member.
 
I was wondering about shimming the transmission too. I have some plates
 
I have poly locks and had to 1/8" shim both sides to clear my 1" bars and PS Box. It helped my zbar to starter clearance too.
 
I had the same problem, and didn't want to dent a new set of $900 headers. I was able to mount the headers to the head, then get underneath and pull the collector over with a ratchet strap, just enough that when released created an 1/8" gap. Probably not the best way, but it worked for me, I have clearance, and no leaks.
 
DARTLARRY said:
I had the same problem, and didn't want to dent a new set of $900 headers. I was able to mount the headers to the head, then get underneath and pull the collector over with a ratchet strap, just enough that when released created an 1/8" gap. Probably not the best way, but it worked for me, I have clearance, and no leaks.
Click to expand...

I've successfully used the ratchet strap a number of times.
The thicker 80's pick-up/van mounts help.
And shifting the trans mount may help .
Cheers
 
I tried the ratchet strap and even though they moved enough to possibly remedy the situation, when I released the strap after letting it sit most of the afternoon they seemed to go back to where they were.
 
I'm sure this may have been discussed at some point. If as some say that denting headers has very little effect on their performance, why doesn't the manufacturers dent them to accommodate larger torsion bars and steering knuckles or whatever else causes the purchaser to beat the hell out of them?
 
I don't know how the header manufacturer would be able to anticipate a customers real world situation. I am working on mine now. In my case with the suspension loaded header tube 1 actually has about 1/8" clearance, 2 has some daylight, while on 3 a piece of paper slips thru. I can hear an occasional bang and the marks, I assume are from them making contact while driving. Its hardly a case where I have to beat the hell out of them. Aside from, that they seemed to be well thought out and fit quite good; if I had stock torsion bars we probably wouldn't even be having this conversation.

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They have been hearing for years about fitment issues. That's real world situations. Dozens of posts on FABO describe wtf issue's. Header manufacturers are building these based on real world cars. Having a car with different size torsion bars isn't rocket science and paying big money for issues where a customer has to "tap" them with a hammer isn't quality control. Installing and then removing them to make those adjustments now voids any warranty. Accommodating a car with up to say, a 1.14 torsion bar shouldn't be a problem.
 
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Is the engine in the right place.
Commonest problem is folks don't read the instructions about where the engine is supposed to sit . 1 1/2 inche's to the passenger side, often requiring new, not soggy mounts, and sometimes the pick-up mounts that are a little taller.
There are several threads with helpful advice .
Good luck.

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I just wrapped up the driver's which was the worst. I took out the torsion bar and I heated them with a torch, "tapped" them with a hammer and a 1 1/8 socket on an extension so could hold it to get the shape. I got some decent clearance now. If you didn't have a torch I could see where "beating the hell out of them" might be needed.
I chose to ding them as opposed to shimming the motor or getting a thicker motor mount, as the bar was more or less parallel with the headers, meaning I didn't think that would work. We'll see how it is once I get my new tires and test drive.
Thanks
 
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