1:24 scale Duster 340 at Tractor Supply

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Well I tried calling 5 locations, including Bowmanville. None of them have it.


Did you find one yet Norton ?
We have a TSC here and they often have these.
I know last week when I was there they had 3 Dusters and a bunch of the flat black Chargers with the skull and bones (The Punisher)

If anyone finds these cars (any model) with white tires or anything other than black tires for that matter, I'd be interested in them. Thats the ones I collect


$_35.JPG
 
I bought a yellow one today. They only had 2 and the options were one with the passenger mirror, one exhaust tip and the air cleaner broke off or one with the driver mirror broke.... So I got the one without the driver mirror... I called another tsc and they said they have 2 left and as far as she could tell nothing was broken, I'll have to go check it out and maybe see about exchanging mine for one of those...
 
Caleb,
What scale are they? AND do you know if the scale would be easy found as a normal model frame to then use a frame and engine parts from an existing model?

EDIT:

Don't mind me I've been giving this some thought on how I can make something from a diecast model body....
 
You read my mind John!! I'm planning on disassembling this thing and redoing it like my car will be. Blue, twister hood (not sure what I'll do bout the scoops) twister stripes, mini tub, different wheels with wider wheels in the back, repaint the interior, if like to find a split bench to put in but I might just stick with the buckets.
 
According to the title of this thread they're 1:24. I did find me a car that has no broken parts on it then!! They actually had 2 but the other had more scuffs.. But if anyone wants a yellow one I could bring the one that I bought with to the Nats and since I may be reprinting mine I could use the scuffed one as a start.
 
Caleb,
So the diecast ones are 1:24th? Hmmmm

NOW, if you got a Revell 1:24th scale Dart, would the frame to that fit under this Duster? I bet they're pretty close the same length....ANd very little to need done to mount the diecast body to the plastic frame......

BE sure to use "blocking on the diecast body, on the inside, to have a place for small holes drilled through the frame, into those blocks to hold it in place.....

The blocks, would have to be epoxyied to the diecast body tho. as that would hold well.....

You take the car apart, snap a picture of the INSIDE of the door panel, and I'll draw you a picture of this set up.....(I know just in thought how this would work!)

The only part your going to have trouble doing is that Challenger Hood.....UNLESS...........a plastic hood could be used, and even then I might be able to help you there, what hood are you referring too? (I have a spare Challenger hood) or so I think its to a Challenger, but anyway, let me know!
 
Not sure I follow you on the "blocking on the inside" part...

Not sure if I'll do the whole Challenger hood on this one or not, the challenger hood I'm referring to would be either the old R/T hoods or the new one, same general layout but the new one is aluminum.
 
I'm thinking I'll probably just use the under body that comes with this one... Or are there advantages to using a model frame?
The under body is actually surprisingly detailed on this thing!
View attachment image.jpg
 
Caleb,
Well see the "inside of the door panels" comment I made, you may not have to do. let me point it out a bit better for you....

Have a look:



See the "red blocks" I added to this picture?

ARE those areas screws? The 2 in the center look as tho they are and have philips screws in place that hold the frame in.

IF this is correct, that means inside that body, where those holes are on the frame are "blocks" added for mounting the frame to the body "shell".....follow me?

NOW granted this frame, isn't badly detailed, BUT I bet its nothing like that of a 1:24th scale model in details, Why you ask? On the actual plastic mode, the motors compartment, would be "open" with the hood lifted, you would be able to see the table under it, with the factory frame, you can't do that! This means that the motor isn't "detailed" either, as your only seeing so much of it and its not a completely modeled motor under the hood, it only "looks-the-part" A model on the other hand is to be a replica! This is why the model frame, would be better....

BUT, that "better frame" also has its down side. you have to detail it to get all that added "extra" on the model.....

See, the Panther Pink 1969 Dodge Charger in the other thread, I posted. that body, is a diecast body, I took the factory frame and machined out all that "cast-in detail" to add my own motor, and my own details. I bought that diecast toy from a yard sale from an old school friend. The actual car, was a diecast General Lee, that his sister took out a fit and ruined it and he just put it in their family's yard sale. I got $1.00 in it, and the time to repair it. BUT its not going to be a General Lee when I'm done!

This is basically the same thing your working on, or going to try to do with this Duster.........I have to say, it is fun, BUT take your time on it as if you want it to come out as you want your real car, BOTH take time!

But see, I mentioned those inside body "blocks" for mounting the frame to the body....BUT, it looks like it already has them!

Make more sense now?
 
Yup. Those are screws but they're some weird triangle headed things. I'm gonna take the grinder to a steel rod n make me a screw driver that fits that so I can take it apart

Oh, and yes your block comments make perfect sense now!:)View attachment image.jpg
 
I bought this one today too, i would really like to put these wheels on the Duster but the reason I got the truck was because dad really likes em so I bought it for him, if I can find one in better shape I'll give him that one and steal these wheels n tires. View attachment image.jpg
 
Caleb,
That triangle drive I'm sure you can pick up a bit for that at a local hardware store, I'm just not sure of the name of it.....But beware, those, triangle sides are not flat! They kind of curve inward towards the center of the bit..... I wonder if you could remove that with a flat screw driver that would "just" fit between 2 corners?

Anyway, those truck wheels would look GREAT on that Duster.....
 
I got em out:) had it broke down this far then stuck it all back together. Lol I'm not near ready to "refresh this thing yet as I need to buy a model, stripe kit and paint yet.. I think I'm gonna put a base/clear paint job on it. I should buy 2 more of these since I'm debating between 3 different colors.. Lol
View attachment image.jpg
 
Caleb,
Got a close up view of that 340 while its out from under the actual car and hood? I'd like to see it and see if there are ANY differences in the Mopar Small block "looks" to the models, I have!

I'll explain later here partly and possibly go to PM.....
 
No I didn't get a pic but it only takes a minute or 2 to tear it down the the "sub frame" again. I might get a pic for you tmrw
 
No rush man... its all good!

What was your plan on the frame of the Duster? As far as the motor is concerned?
 
Didn't really have a plan but if I do the frame swap I may as well make the motor look like I want too
 
When your ready, let me know I may have some extra parts to help you with,.....As I been "collecting" so, in order to make molds, I need "Master copies" to use in the mold making process, and to do this is where trades come in, SO, that being said, I may have what your looking for if you go through with the frame swap!
 
DAMN! I would kill to get the air cleaner with the decal! Thats NICELY done! That whole "top end" of the motor looks good!
 
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